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Lumene Nordic Bloom Vitality Anti-Wrinkle & Revitalize Rich Day Cream Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream

Lumene Nordic Bloom Vitality Anti-Wrinkle & Revitalize Rich Day Cream Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydra

Lumene Nordic Bloom Vitality Anti-Wrinkle & Revitalize Rich Day Cream Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters

Glycerin

Cetearyl Olivate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Betaine

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice

Propanediol

Oleyl Erucate

Sorbitan Olivate

Squalane

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Cetearyl Alcohol

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract

Sodium Carrageenan

Phenoxyethanol

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Palmitoyl Isoleucine

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Dimethicone

Sucrose Stearate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Tocopherol

Mica

Palmitic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Adenosine

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Tin Oxide

Potassium Sorbate

Maris Sal

Citric Acid

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Parfum

Iron Oxides

CI 77891

Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Betaine, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice, Propanediol, Oleyl Erucate, Sorbitan Olivate, Squalane, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Sodium Carrageenan, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Palmitoyl Isoleucine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Dimethicone, Sucrose Stearate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Mica, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Tin Oxide, Potassium Sorbate, Maris Sal, Citric Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Parfum, Iron Oxides, CI 77891

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Isostearyl Neopentanoate

PEG-100 Stearate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Limonene

Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Stearyl Alcohol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Ceteth-10 Phosphate

Dicetyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Panthenol

Caprylyl Glycol

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Glucosamine Hcl

Hexylene Glycol

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

PEG-8

Butylene Glycol

Phytic Acid

Pisum Sativum Extract

Allantoin

Retinyl Palmitate

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Yeast Polysaccharides

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate

Benzoic Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Pyruvic Acid

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Limonene, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopherol, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-8, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Pisum Sativum Extract, Allantoin, Retinyl Palmitate, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Yeast Polysaccharides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzoic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pyruvic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Jojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.

Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.

Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.

Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).

Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.

Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.

Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  4. 04Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  5. 05In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  6. 06Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  7. 07Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  8. 08While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  9. 09This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  10. 10Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
  11. 11This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
  12. 12On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
  13. 13One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too st…
  14. 14Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
  15. 15You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
  16. 16This ingredient is also known as Octinoxate and is one of the oldest and most widely used chemical UV filters in skincare.
  17. 17It has a simple job: soap up UVB radiation (290-320 nm), the wavelengths responsible for sunburn and a big chunk of long-term sun damage.
  18. 18In formulas, it's always paired with a separate UVA filter because octinoxate solely protects skin from UVB.
  19. 19Because it's an oil-soluble liquid, it's easy to blend into the oil phase of lotions/creams and gives a cosmetically elegant feel.
  20. 20The one quirk about formulating this ingredient is photostability; the molecule slowly changes shape into a less effective version when sunlight hits it. So the longer you're in the sun, the weaker its protection gets. The drop can be more than 30% …
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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