Lumene Nordic Bloom Vitality Anti-Wrinkle & Revitalize Rich Day Cream Versus The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer

Lumene Nordic Bloom Vitality Anti-Wrinkle & Revitalize Rich Day Cream Versus The INKEY List Bakuchiol Moisturizer

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Bakuchiol and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters

Glycerin

Cetearyl Olivate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Betaine

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice

Propanediol

Oleyl Erucate

Sorbitan Olivate

Squalane

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Cetearyl Alcohol

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil

Epilobium Angustifolium Extract

Sodium Carrageenan

Phenoxyethanol

Hydrogenated Olive Oil

Palmitoyl Isoleucine

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Dimethicone

Sucrose Stearate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Tocopherol

Mica

Palmitic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Gluconate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Adenosine

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Tin Oxide

Potassium Sorbate

Maris Sal

Citric Acid

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Parfum

Iron Oxides

CI 77891

Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Decyl Esters, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Betaine, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Fruit Juice, Propanediol, Oleyl Erucate, Sorbitan Olivate, Squalane, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea Seed Oil, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Sodium Carrageenan, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Palmitoyl Isoleucine, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Dimethicone, Sucrose Stearate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Tocopherol, Mica, Palmitic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Adenosine, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Tin Oxide, Potassium Sorbate, Maris Sal, Citric Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Parfum, Iron Oxides, CI 77891

Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil

Bakuchiol

Sodium Caproyl Prolinate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Carbomer

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Polysorbate 60

Phytic Acid

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Propanediol, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Bakuchiol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Caproyl Prolinate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 60, Phytic Acid, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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