Skin science article
Mario Badescu Clarifying Serum with Azelaic Acid Versus The INKEY List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution
Mario Badescu Clarifying Serum with Azelaic Acid Versus The INKEY List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution This acne serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to clear breakouts and calm redn
Mario Badescu Clarifying Serum with Azelaic Acid Versus The INKEY List SuperSolutions 10% Azelaic Serum Redness Relief Solution
This acne serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to clear breakouts and calm redness.
This calming serum is formulated around Azelaic Acid to calm redness and clear breakouts.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Glycerin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Azelaic Acid
Inulin
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Phenoxyethanol
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Betaine
Polysorbate 20
Chlorphenesin
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Caprylyl Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Sodium Sulfite
PCA
Lactic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Serine
Sodium Benzoate
Alanine
Sodium Chloride
Glycine
Polyglycerin-6
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
Potassium Sorbate
Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf Extract
Hydroxyacetophenone
Proline
1,2-Hexanediol
Citric Acid
Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Azelaic Acid, Inulin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Phenoxyethanol, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Betaine, Polysorbate 20, Chlorphenesin, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Sulfite, PCA, Lactic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Serine, Sodium Benzoate, Alanine, Sodium Chloride, Glycine, Polyglycerin-6, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Potassium Sorbate, Orthosiphon Stamineus Leaf Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Proline, 1,2-Hexanediol, Citric Acid
Propanediol
Acacia Senegal Gum
Xanthan Gum
Allantoin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Maltodextrin
Sodium Hydroxide
Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Polylysine
Water, Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Polylysine
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!