Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Aqua Essence Lifting Ampoule Versus Perfect Diary Multi-Peptide Essence Tone Up Cream
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Aqua Essence Lifting Ampoule Versus Perfect Diary Multi-Peptide Essence Tone Up Cream This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Aqua Essence Lifting Ampoule Versus Perfect Diary Multi-Peptide Essence Tone Up Cream
This anti-aging ampoule is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Isopentyldiol
Glycerin
Niacinamide
Panthenol
1,2-Hexanediol
Propanediol
Dipropylene Glycol
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Betaine
Allantoin
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Stomach Extract
Hair Extract
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Arginine
Glucose
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Trideceth-10
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Caprylyl Glycol
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Xanthan Gum
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl
Copper Tripeptide-1
Dipeptide-2
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Glutathione
Thioctic Acid
Ubiquinone
Astaxanthin
Cholesterol
PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ceteth-3
Ceteth-5
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Carbomer
Benzyl Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Water, Butylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Betaine, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Stomach Extract, Hair Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Arginine, Glucose, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Trideceth-10, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Copper Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Glutathione, Thioctic Acid, Ubiquinone, Astaxanthin, Cholesterol, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Carbomer, Benzyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Cyclopentasiloxane
C12-14 Isoparaffin
CI 77891
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Squalane
Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Caprylic Acid
Polyacrylamide
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer
Hexapeptide-8
Carnosine
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract
Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract
Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract
Lecithin
Aluminum Hydroxide
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Laureth-7
Pearl Powder
CI 19140
CI 14700
Disodium Phosphate
Sodium Phosphate
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract
Opuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract
Paeonia Suffruticosa Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Water, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, C12-14 Isoparaffin, CI 77891, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Caprylic Acid, Polyacrylamide, Betaine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Hexapeptide-8, Carnosine, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Flower Cell Extract, Disodium EDTA, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Lecithin, Aluminum Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Caprylyl Glycol, Laureth-7, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pearl Powder, CI 19140, CI 14700, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Opuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!