MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Golden Camellia Wrinkle Cream Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream

MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Golden Camellia Wrinkle Cream Versus Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dibutyl Adipate

Synthetic Wax

Silica

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Dimethicone

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Polysilicone-15

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Stearyl Heptanoate

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylic/Capric Glycerides

Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate

Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate

Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Propanediol

Ectoin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Ecklonia Cava Extract

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propylene Glycol

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract

Cholesterol

Retinal

Mentha Viridis Extract

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

Ceteth-3

Ceteth-5

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract

Sargassum Fulvellum Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract

Thiamine Hcl

Pantothenic Acid

Tripeptide-1

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Riboflavin

Pyridoxine

Biotin

Cyanocobalamin

Folic Acid

Parfum

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Synthetic Wax, Silica, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polysilicone-15, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Stearyl Heptanoate, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/Sebacate, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Ectoin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ecklonia Cava Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Cholesterol, Retinal, Mentha Viridis Extract, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Sargassum Fulvellum Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sasa Quelpaertensis Extract, Thiamine Hcl, Pantothenic Acid, Tripeptide-1, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Riboflavin, Pyridoxine, Biotin, Cyanocobalamin, Folic Acid, Parfum

Cetearyl Alcohol

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Alcohol Denat.

Cetearyl Isononanoate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Isopropyl Palmitate

Octyldodecanol

Cyclodextrin

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Pisum Sativum Extract

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Cera Alba

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Butter

Cetearyl Glucoside

Citric Acid

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Tocopherol

Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer

Benzyl Alcohol

Geraniol

Limonene

Chlorphenesin

Dipropylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Alcohol Denat., Cetearyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Octyldodecanol, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pisum Sativum Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cera Alba, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysorbate 60, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopherol, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Limonene, Chlorphenesin, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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