MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus MEDI-PEEL Melanon X Ampoule

MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus MEDI-PEEL Melanon X Ampoule

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This brightening ampoule is formulated around Panthenol and Niacinamide to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether

Cyclopentasiloxane

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Decyl Glucoside

Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate

Stearic Acid

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Betaine

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil

Hydroxyacetophenone

Dimethicone

Arginine

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Carbomer

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Propanediol

Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Allantoin

Ammonium Lactate

Urea

Parfum

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Laureth-23

Propylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Butylene Glycol

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract

Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water

Fructan

Benzyl Glycol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Desamido Collagen

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Decylene Glycol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Trideceth-6

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Raspberry Ketone

Hyaluronic Acid

Sorbitan Laurate

Nonoxynol-14

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Astaxanthin

Ethyl Hexanediol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Betaine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dimethicone, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ammonium Lactate, Urea, Parfum, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-23, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Fructan, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Desamido Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Decylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Trideceth-6, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raspberry Ketone, Hyaluronic Acid, Sorbitan Laurate, Nonoxynol-14, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Astaxanthin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Panthenol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Tromethamine

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Borago Officinalis Extract

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Alpha-Arbutin

Salvia Sclarea Extract

Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment

Xanthan Gum

Calcium Pantothenate

Maltodextrin

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Garcinia Indica Fruit Extract

Glutathione

Camellia Sinensis Flower Extract

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Phenethyl Alcohol

Hydrolyzed Sponge

Artemisia Absinthium Extract

Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Pyridoxine Hcl

Sucrose Palmitate

Ascorbic Acid

Tocopherol

Menadione

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Linoleic Acid

Retinyl Palmitate

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Sodium Phosphate

Linolenic Acid

Lecithin

Retinal

Silica

Tranexamic Acid

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-10

Sh-Polypeptide-60

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Limonene

Citral

Hexyl Cinnamal

Linalool

Benzyl Salicylate

Water, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether, Glycerin, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tromethamine, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Borago Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Hyacinthus Orientalis Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Calcium Pantothenate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Garcinia Indica Fruit Extract, Glutathione, Camellia Sinensis Flower Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sucrose Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Menadione, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Linoleic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Sodium Phosphate, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Retinal, Silica, Tranexamic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-10, Sh-Polypeptide-60, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Limonene, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

This ingredient is also known as African Palm Oil. It is a plant-based emollient that is slightly occlusive leaning.

As an emollient, it helps moisturize the skin and supports the lipid barrier. Clinical testing found it improved skin hydration, reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and increased skin elasticity.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has assessed the available safety data and found it to safe in cosmetics.

The comedogenic rating of 2/5 means it is low-to-moderate risk of pore clogging; please remember comedogenic ratings cannot predict how the overall formula will behave on skin.

Because its dominant fatty acids (palmitic and oleic acid) fall within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can use as a growth substrate, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.

Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.

The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.

The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.

A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons