Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus VT Cosmetics PDRN Essence 100
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus VT Cosmetics PDRN Essence 100 This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging essence is formulated a
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus VT Cosmetics PDRN Essence 100
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Extract and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether
Cyclopentasiloxane
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cyclohexasiloxane
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Decyl Glucoside
Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Betaine
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Dimethicone
Arginine
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Carbomer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Propanediol
Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Ammonium Lactate
Urea
Parfum
Adenosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Laureth-23
Propylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Butylene Glycol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water
Fructan
Benzyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Desamido Collagen
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Decylene Glycol
Sodium Polyacrylate
Caprylyl Glycol
Trideceth-6
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Raspberry Ketone
Hyaluronic Acid
Sorbitan Laurate
Nonoxynol-14
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Astaxanthin
Ethyl Hexanediol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Oligopeptide-29
Oligopeptide-32
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Betaine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dimethicone, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ammonium Lactate, Urea, Parfum, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-23, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Fructan, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Desamido Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Decylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Trideceth-6, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raspberry Ketone, Hyaluronic Acid, Sorbitan Laurate, Nonoxynol-14, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Astaxanthin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Isopropyl Myristate
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Tocopherol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ceramide NP
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Squalane
Panthenol
Polyglucuronic Acid
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide As
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Sodium DNA
Water, Isopropyl Myristate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Squalane, Panthenol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Sodium DNA
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!