Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus VT Cosmetics Super Hyalon All In One Essence
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus VT Cosmetics Super Hyalon All In One Essence This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This hydrating essence i
MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume All In One Essence Versus VT Cosmetics Super Hyalon All In One Essence
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This hydrating essence is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether
Cyclopentasiloxane
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cyclohexasiloxane
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Decyl Glucoside
Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Betaine
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Dimethicone
Arginine
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Carbomer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Propanediol
Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Ammonium Lactate
Urea
Parfum
Adenosine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Laureth-23
Propylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Butylene Glycol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water
Fructan
Benzyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Desamido Collagen
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Decylene Glycol
Sodium Polyacrylate
Caprylyl Glycol
Trideceth-6
Pentylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
1,2-Hexanediol
Raspberry Ketone
Hyaluronic Acid
Sorbitan Laurate
Nonoxynol-14
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Astaxanthin
Ethyl Hexanediol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Oligopeptide-29
Oligopeptide-32
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Betaine, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Dimethicone, Arginine, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Carbomer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Ammonium Lactate, Urea, Parfum, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Laureth-23, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Fructan, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Desamido Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Decylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Trideceth-6, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raspberry Ketone, Hyaluronic Acid, Sorbitan Laurate, Nonoxynol-14, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Astaxanthin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Methyl Gluceth-20
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Tromethamine
Behenyl Alcohol
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
Pueraria Lobata Root Extract
Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Polyglutamic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Apium Graveolens Extract
Prunus Avium Fruit Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Ceramide NP
Water, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Behenyl Alcohol, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Polyglutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Apium Graveolens Extract, Prunus Avium Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyquaternium-51, Ceramide NP
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a crosslinked version of sodium hyaluronate. This just means it's linked into a 3D mesh network that lets it be more stable and sit on skin as a cohesive, gel-like film rather than sinking into skin.
A 2016 human skin study found crosslinked HA increased epidermal water content by 7.6% over the control group and reduced transepidermal water loss by 27.8%.
A follow-up clinical trial found that a topical crosslinked HA serum applied after fillers, microneedling, or chemical peels was well-tolerated and enhanced skin quality at 14 / 28 days.
More recent research suggests that concentrations as low as 0.03% can act as a penetration enhancer for other skincare actives.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!