MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume And Tension Tox Cream Pro Versus Centellian24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse

MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume And Tension Tox Cream Pro Versus Centellian24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Asiaticoside to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Glycerin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate

Niacinamide

Stearic Acid

Dimethicone

1,2-Hexanediol

Sorbitan Stearate

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

Beeswax

Microcrystalline Wax

PEG-100 Stearate

Arginine

Carbomer

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Parfum

Panthenol

Caprylyl Glycol

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Adenosine

Disodium EDTA

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ectoin

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Propylene Glycol

Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Betaine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Fructan

Pentylene Glycol

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Glycine

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Serine

Glutamic Acid

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Caviar Extract

Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Royal Jelly Extract

Aspartic Acid

Leucine

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Alanine

Lysine

Tyrosine

Phenylalanine

Proline

Threonine

Valine

Isoleucine

Histidine

Cysteine

Methionine

Collagen

Collagen Amino Acids

Collagen Extract

Ethylhexylglycerin

Gold

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Soluble Collagen

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hyaluronic Acid

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Tocopherol

Potassium Hyaluronate

Astaxanthin

Water, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Beeswax, Microcrystalline Wax, PEG-100 Stearate, Arginine, Carbomer, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum, Panthenol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ectoin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Propylene Glycol, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Betaine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Fructan, Pentylene Glycol, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycine, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Caviar Extract, Cladosiphon Okamuranus Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Royal Jelly Extract, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Alanine, Lysine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Collagen Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gold, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hyaluronic Acid, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Potassium Hyaluronate, Astaxanthin

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Cyclohexasiloxane

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Vinyldimethicone

Dicaprylyl Ether

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Stearyl Alcohol

Jojoba Esters

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Madecassic Acid

Asiaticoside

Xylitylglucoside

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Anhydroxylitol

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Asiatic Acid

Glycoproteins

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Xylitol

Centella Asiatica Oil

Methylpropanediol

Allantoin

Propanediol

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Xanthan Gum

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Ethoxydiglycol

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Glucose

Sorbitan Isostearate

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Sodium Laurate

Cyclodextrin

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Polyglycerin-3

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Lauric Acid

Sodium Polyacrylate

Octyldodecanol

Glycine Soja Oil

Glycolipids

Caffeine

Madecassoside

C12-13 Pareth-9

Ceramide NP

Copaifera Officinalis Resin

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Silybum Marianum Extract

Resveratrol

Taurine

Glycogen

Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil

Retinol

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Maltodextrin

Ascorbic Acid

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Phytosphingosine

Sucrose Distearate

Sodium DNA

Jasminum Officinale Oil

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Artemisia Absinthium Extract

Myrtus Communis Oil

Rose Flower Oil

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil

Limonene

Linalool

Citral

Camphor

Beta-Caryophyllene

Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil

Lavandula Oil/Extract

Linalyl Acetate

Pinene

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Vinyldimethicone, Dicaprylyl Ether, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Jojoba Esters, Beeswax, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Xylitylglucoside, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Anhydroxylitol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Asiatic Acid, Glycoproteins, Butylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Xylitol, Centella Asiatica Oil, Methylpropanediol, Allantoin, Propanediol, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Glucose, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sodium Laurate, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Polyglycerin-3, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Lauric Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Octyldodecanol, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glycolipids, Caffeine, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, C12-13 Pareth-9, Collagen Amino Acids, Ceramide NP, Copaifera Officinalis Resin, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Resveratrol, Arginine, Taurine, Glycogen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Ectoin, Cedrus Atlantica Bark Oil, Retinol, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Maltodextrin, Ascorbic Acid, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Phytosphingosine, Tocopherol, Sucrose Distearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium DNA, Jasminum Officinale Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Myrtus Communis Oil, Rose Flower Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Aspartic Acid, Ferula Galbaniflua Resin Oil, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Camphor, Beta-Caryophyllene, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil, Lavandula Oil/Extract, Linalyl Acetate, Pinene

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Aspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.

Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.

Beeswax is natural wax produced by honey bees to build their honeycomb.

Because it forms a protective layer on your skin, it can help lock in moisture and reduce water loss. It is also widely used as a thickener and emulsifier in lip balms and lotions. Research suggests beeswax containing moisturizers can support skin barrier integrity.

In comedogenic testing, Beeswax scored a 0-2, which is on the low end. Whether or not a product clogs your pores really comes down to the formula as a whole (not any single ingredient on its own).

Cera Alba is the white, bleached form of this ingredient.

Just so you know, beeswax is not vegan since it is animal-derived. It cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.

People with a known Propolis allergy also report to have reactions from beeswax.

Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.

The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.

That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.

These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.

Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.

Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.

Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:

So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.

Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:

Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.

Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.

It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.

On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.

Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.

But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.

Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).

The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).

In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.

Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Collagen amino acids are naturally found in the outermost layer of your skin.Your body uses amino acids to build collagen and elastin.

Due to their tiny size, amino acids are able to be absorbed into the skin. They mostly play a role in keeping your skin hydrated and reinforcing your NMF (natural moisturizing factors).

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ectoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.

This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.

When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.

Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:

A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.

Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.

In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:

Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.

Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.

The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.

In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).

An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.

Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.

Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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