MEDI-PEEL Peptide9 Volume White Cica Essence Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides

MEDI-PEEL Peptide9 Volume White Cica Essence Versus Medik8 Liquid Peptides

This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Centella Asiatica Extract to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Methylpropanediol

Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether

Niacinamide

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cyclohexasiloxane

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate

Arginine

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Decyl Glucoside

Betaine

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil

Dimethicone

Decylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Myristic Acid

Hexylene Glycol

Carbomer

Propanediol

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract

Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Urea

Allantoin

Ammonium Lactate

Adenosine

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans

Laureth-23

Propylene Glycol

Disodium EDTA

Buteth-3

Centella Asiatica Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract

Fructan

Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract

Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate

Benzyl Glycol

Alcohol Denat.

Decyl Alcohol

Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Glucose

Desamido Collagen

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Tranexamic Acid

Tributyl Citrate

Trideceth-6

Sodium Polyacrylate

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract

Asiaticoside

Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Sorbitan Laurate

Polysorbate 20

Raspberry Ketone

Polysorbate 80

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Astaxanthin

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Madecassoside

Madecassic Acid

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Tripeptide-1

Asiatic Acid

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

1,2-Hexanediol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Totarol

Caprylyl Glycol

Parfum

CI 42090

CI 15985

CI 19140

Water, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Methyl Perfluoroisobutyl Ether, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Perfluorobutyl Ether, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sodium Myristoyl Glutamate, Arginine, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Decyl Glucoside, Betaine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Dimethicone, Decylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Myristic Acid, Hexylene Glycol, Carbomer, Propanediol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Urea, Allantoin, Ammonium Lactate, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Laureth-23, Propylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Buteth-3, Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Water, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Fructan, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, Benzyl Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Decyl Alcohol, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glucose, Desamido Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Tranexamic Acid, Tributyl Citrate, Trideceth-6, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Asiaticoside, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Sorbitan Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Raspberry Ketone, Polysorbate 80, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Astaxanthin, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Asiatic Acid, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Totarol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, CI 42090, CI 15985, CI 19140

Inulin

Panthenol

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Carnosine

Phenoxyethanol

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Dunaliella Salina Extract

Citric Acid

Sodium Benzoate

Tetrapeptide-21

Pentapeptide-18

Pantolactone

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Glyceryl Caprylate

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Phenylpropanol

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Potassium Sorbate

Xanthan Gum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Inulin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Carnosine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetrapeptide-21, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.

This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.

It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.

The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.

This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.

Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.

On the fungal acne front: Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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