Skin science article
MEDI-PEEL Phyto Cica Nol B5 Wrapping Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask
MEDI-PEEL Phyto Cica Nol B5 Wrapping Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask This wash off mask is made with Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Niacinamide for a rinse-off calming boost. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off
MEDI-PEEL Phyto Cica Nol B5 Wrapping Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask
This wash off mask is made with Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Niacinamide for a rinse-off calming boost.
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off pore-care boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Methylpropanediol
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Polysorbate 80
Pullulan
Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Sphingomonas Ferment Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Gardenia Florida Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Angelica Archangelica Root Extract
Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Carica Papaya Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Panthenol
Disteardimonium Hectorite
Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Allantoin
Adenosine
Cellulose Gum
Sodium Phytate
Dextrin
Polygonum Fagopyrum Flour
Tocopherol
Citric Acid
Madecassoside
Glycerin
Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol
Silica
Kaolin
Madecassic Acid
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Pentylene Glycol
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Retinyl Palmitate
Biotin
Oligopeptide-3
Thiamine Hcl
Folic Acid
Pyridoxine
Cyanocobalamin
Salicylic Acid
Parfum
Water, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polysorbate 80, Pullulan, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Gardenia Florida Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Prunus Domestica Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Panthenol, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Adenosine, Cellulose Gum, Sodium Phytate, Dextrin, Polygonum Fagopyrum Flour, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Madecassoside, Glycerin, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Silica, Kaolin, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Biotin, Oligopeptide-3, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine, Cyanocobalamin, Salicylic Acid, Parfum
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder
Hectorite
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
Ultramarines
Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Polyisobutene
Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract
CI 77491
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Oleate
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Water, Glycerin, Kaolin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder, Hectorite, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Ultramarines, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyisobutene, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, CI 77491, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!