Skin science article
MediCube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot Serum 7500 Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
MediCube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot Serum 7500 Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This smoothing serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts. This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic
MediCube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot Serum 7500 Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
This smoothing serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Glycerin
Hydrolyzed Sponge
Sodium Polyacrylate
Hydroxyacetophenone
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Sorbitan Olivate
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Adenosine
Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Disodium EDTA
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Azelaic Acid
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Dextrin
Butylene Glycol
Betaine Salicylate
Citric Acid
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Milk Exosomes
Panthenol
Campsis Grandiflora Flower Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Root Extract
Saccharomyces Ferment
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Potassium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Asiaticoside
Madecassoside
Asiatic Acid
Madecassic Acid
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sorbitan Olivate, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Disodium EDTA, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Azelaic Acid, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus Extracellular Vesicles, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Dextrin, Butylene Glycol, Betaine Salicylate, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Milk Exosomes, Panthenol, Campsis Grandiflora Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone
Salicylic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Propanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!