Skin science article
MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Tox Cream
MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Tox Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften
MediCube Collagen Jelly Cream Versus MEDI-PEEL Peptide 9 Volume Tox Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Dipropylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Methylpropanediol
Diethoxyethyl Succinate
Ethoxydiglycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Niacinamide
Trehalose
1,2-Hexanediol
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Collagen
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Cynanchum Atratum Extract
Althaea Rosea Flower Extract
Soluble Collagen
Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract
Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Salmon Egg Extract
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Wine Extract
Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate
Tromethamine
Glucose
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Fructooligosaccharides
Fructose
Adenosine
Sodium Phytate
Cyanocobalamin
Tocopherol
Pullulan
Glycerin
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Squalane
Soluble Proteoglycan
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Sodium DNA
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
Parfum
Water, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Ethoxydiglycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Trehalose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Collagen, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Soluble Collagen, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Bertholletia Excelsa Seed Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Salmon Egg Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Wine Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Tromethamine, Glucose, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Glycerin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Soluble Proteoglycan, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Sodium DNA, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Parfum
Dimethicone
Cyclopentasiloxane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Olivate
Cyclohexasiloxane
Sorbitan Olivate
Glyceryl Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Cetearyl Glucoside
Arginine
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Isohexadecane
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Polysorbate 80
Sodium Hyaluronate
Disodium EDTA
Sorbitan Oleate
Glycine Soja Oil
Desamido Collagen
Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract
Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
Fructan
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Bixa Orellana Seed Oil
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Sorbitan Laurate
Propylene Glycol
Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
Nonoxynol-14
Phenoxyethanol
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Benzyl Glycol
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Astaxanthin
Ethyl Hexanediol
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Caprylyl Glycol
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hyaluronic Acid
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Hexapeptide-9
Raspberry Ketone
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arginine, Carbomer, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Trehalose, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Polysorbate 80, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Glycine Soja Oil, Desamido Collagen, Juniperus Communis Fruit Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Fructan, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Bixa Orellana Seed Oil, Propanediol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sorbitan Laurate, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Nonoxynol-14, Phenoxyethanol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Tocopherol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Benzyl Glycol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Astaxanthin, Ethyl Hexanediol, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Caprylyl Glycol, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hyaluronic Acid, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Hexapeptide-9, Raspberry Ketone, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.
Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.