Skin science article
MediCube Deep Lifting Peptide Eye Cream Versus MediCube Kojic Acid Turmeric Vita Eye Gel Serum
MediCube Deep Lifting Peptide Eye Cream Versus MediCube Kojic Acid Turmeric Vita Eye Gel Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles. This brightening eye moisturizer is formu
MediCube Deep Lifting Peptide Eye Cream Versus MediCube Kojic Acid Turmeric Vita Eye Gel Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Kojic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Butylene Glycol
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
Dipropylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Panthenol
Niacinamide
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
1,2-Hexanediol
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Cetearyl Olivate
C14-22 Alcohols
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Sorbitan Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Polysorbate 60
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Palmitic Acid
Stearic Acid
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethiconol
Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Saccharide Hydrolysate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Fructooligosaccharides
Allantoin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Caprylyl Glycol
Pullulan
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Adenosine
Sorbitan Laurate
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Myristyl Alcohol
Myristic Acid
Hyaluronic Acid
Glucose
Arachidic Acid
Lauryl Alcohol
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Ceramide NP
Atelocollagen
Desamido Collagen
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Oleic Acid
Hydrolyzed Elastin
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Soluble Collagen
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Collagen
Collagen Amino Acids
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Procollagen
Magnesium PCA
Copper Tripeptide-1
Serine
Sucrose
Glycine
Calcium Chloride
Sea Salt
Alanine
Magnesium Chloride
Threonine
Histidine
Aspartic Acid
Valine
Proline
Dipotassium Phosphate
Lysine
Leucine
Tyrosine
Isoleucine
Magnesium Citrate
Glucosamine Hcl
Phenylalanine
Glutamic Acid
Arginine
1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Asparagine
Citrulline
Methionine
Taurine
Tryptophan
Formic Acid
Glutamine
Cysteine
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Cetearyl Olivate, C14-22 Alcohols, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethiconol, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Fructooligosaccharides, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Pullulan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Adenosine, Sorbitan Laurate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Myristyl Alcohol, Myristic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Glucose, Arachidic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Atelocollagen, Desamido Collagen, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Oleic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Procollagen, Magnesium PCA, Copper Tripeptide-1, Serine, Sucrose, Glycine, Calcium Chloride, Sea Salt, Alanine, Magnesium Chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic Acid, Valine, Proline, Dipotassium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Isoleucine, Magnesium Citrate, Glucosamine Hcl, Phenylalanine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Asparagine, Citrulline, Methionine, Taurine, Tryptophan, Formic Acid, Glutamine, Cysteine
Jojoba Esters
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Kojic Acid
Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Silica Silylate
Sodium Citrate
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Wood Oil
Behenyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Tocopherol
Thioctic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Water, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Jojoba Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Kojic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Allantoin, Cetyl Alcohol, Silica Silylate, Sodium Citrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Adenosine, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Wood Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Arginine, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Squalane, Thioctic Acid, Glycolic Acid
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!