Skin science article
MediCube Deep Vita C Ampoule Versus COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum
MediCube Deep Vita C Ampoule Versus COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum This brightening ampoule is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Glutathione to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Nia
MediCube Deep Vita C Ampoule Versus COSRX The 6 Peptide Skin Booster Serum
This brightening ampoule is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Glutathione to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Ascorbic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Isopropyl Oleate
Isopropyl Sorbate
Polysorbate 60
Glutathione
Glycerin
Alpha-Ionol
Glyceryl Stearate
Panthenol
Citric Acid
Chitosan
Pullulan
Sodium Gluconate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Dimethicone
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Cetrimonium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
Vigna Radiata Seed Extract
Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Beta-Carotene
Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Beta-Glucan
Betula Alba Bark Extract
Sophora Flavescens Root Extract
Sodium
Water, Ascorbic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Isopropyl Oleate, Isopropyl Sorbate, Polysorbate 60, Glutathione, Glycerin, Alpha-Ionol, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Citric Acid, Chitosan, Pullulan, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Sodium Chloride, Vigna Radiata Seed Extract, Citrus Grandis Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Beta-Carotene, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Beta-Glucan, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Sodium
Pentylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Copper Tripeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-121
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Oligopeptide-68
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Allantoin
Acetyl Glucosamine
Serine
Alanine
Glycine
Threonine
Arginine
Proline
Betaine
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
PCA
Glutamic Acid
Lysine Hcl
Tocopherol
Dextran
Glycine Soja Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Xanthan Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Polyquaternium-51
Disodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
T-Butyl Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Oleate
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Oligopeptide-68, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Betaine, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, PCA, Glutamic Acid, Lysine Hcl, Tocopherol, Dextran, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Polyquaternium-51, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Oleate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!