Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides Mineral Antioxidant Peptide Serum Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment

Medik8 Copper PCA Peptides Mineral Antioxidant Peptide Serum Versus Allies of Skin Peptide & Antioxidants Firming Daily Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Stearic Acid

Polyacrylamide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Phenoxyethanol

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2

Cetearyl Alcohol

Copper PCA

Niacinamide

Butylene Glycol

Benzyl Alcohol

Laureth-7

Polysilicone-11

Triethanolamine

Aminobutyric Acid

CI 77120

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Dehydroacetic Acid

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Superoxide Dismutase

Tromethamine

Sodium Metabisulfite

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Polyacrylamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Phenoxyethanol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Cetearyl Alcohol, Copper PCA, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Laureth-7, Polysilicone-11, Triethanolamine, Aminobutyric Acid, CI 77120, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Superoxide Dismutase, Tromethamine, Sodium Metabisulfite

Isononyl Isononanoate

Caffeine

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Lactobacillus Ferment

Cetearyl Olivate

Polysorbate 60

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Marrubium Vulgare Extract

Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower

Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract

Teprenone

Phospholipids

Hyaluronic Acid

Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract

Sphingolipids

Astaxanthin

Bisabolol

Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil

Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil

Honey

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Ceramide NP

Phenyl T-Butylnitrone

Tocopherol

Glutathione

Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane

Ergothioneine

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Sorbitan Olivate

Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Mica

Dextran

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

CI 77891

Isohexadecane

Maltodextrin

Polysorbate 80

Acetyl Tributyl Citrate

Tetrasodium EDTA

Sorbitan Oleate

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Glycolate

O-Cymen-5-Ol

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, Caffeine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Niacinamide, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cetearyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-40, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Moringa Oleifera Seed Extract, Teprenone, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Sphingolipids, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Honey, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ceramide NP, Phenyl T-Butylnitrone, Tocopherol, Glutathione, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Ergothioneine, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Sorbitan Olivate, Benzimidazole Diamond Amidoethyl Urea Carbamoyl Propyl Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Mica, Dextran, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isohexadecane, Maltodextrin, Polysorbate 80, Acetyl Tributyl Citrate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Glycolate, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, O-Cymen-5-Ol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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