Skin science article
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Versus Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Versus Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This smooth
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Advanced MP Versus Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This smoothing treatment is formulated around Squalane and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Butylene Glycol
Undecane
Arginine
Inulin
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Ceteareth-20
Tridecane
Tocopherol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Panthenol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Pullulan
Tetrapeptide-21
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Glyceryl Linoleate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Pentapeptide-18
Oligopeptide-1
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Sucrose Palmitate
Cetyl Palmitate
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Carbomer
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
Polysorbate 80
Sorbitan Stearate
Polysorbate 20
Carnosine
Sodium Metabisulfite
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Sodium Benzoate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Caprylyl Glycol
Pantolactone
Xanthan Gum
Disodium EDTA
T-Butyl Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Citric Acid
Glyceryl Caprylate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, Undecane, Arginine, Inulin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Ceteareth-20, Tridecane, Tocopherol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Panthenol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pullulan, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Oligopeptide-1, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Sucrose Palmitate, Cetyl Palmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Polysorbate 80, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pantolactone, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, T-Butyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol
Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract
Cypripedium Pubescens Extract
Opuntia Vulgaris Leaf Extract
Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Squalane
Lactic Acid
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
Propanediol
Stearic Acid
Cetearyl Alcohol
Phenyl Trimethicone
Disiloxane
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil
Potassium Hydroxide
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Phytate
Water, Opuntia Tuna Fruit Extract, Cypripedium Pubescens Extract, Opuntia Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Lactic Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Disiloxane, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Phytate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Ceteareth-20 is an emulsifier and surfactant made by reacting cetearyl alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide.
This gives it both oil and water-loving properties that makes it an effect emulsifier; it's really great at pulling oil droplets into water to create a stable, creamy, and easy-to-spread base.
Typical use ranges from 0.5-30%. Most leave-on products are in the 1-10% zone.
The 20 ethylene oxide units is well above the PEG-10 threshold and therefore not a food source for Malassezia (it's fungal acne safe).
This ingredient has a comedogenic rating of 2 and an irritancy rating of 3. These numbers come from testing the raw ingredient on rabbit ears and doesn't reflect how it will behave in a finished product.
In practice, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient. The ratings reflect cautious lab conditions and not real-world use. Just be sure to patch test any formulas you feel unsure about.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.