Skin science article
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Versus Avène RetrinAL Ceramide Lipid-Replenishing Balm
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Versus Avène RetrinAL Ceramide Lipid-Replenishing Balm This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Versus Avène RetrinAL Ceramide Lipid-Replenishing Balm
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Inulin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Carnosine
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Benzoate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tetrapeptide-21
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Pantolactone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Glyceryl Caprylate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Potassium Sorbate
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Inulin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Carnosine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetrapeptide-21, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Behenyl Alcohol
Niacinamide
Cetearyl Alcohol
Arachidyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl Linoleate
Bakuchiol
Arachidyl Glucoside
Ceramide Ng
Cetearyl Glucoside
Diutan Gum
Glyceryl Linolenate
Glyceryl Oleate
Glyceryl Palmitate
Glycine Soja Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Phytosterols
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Tocopherol
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Behenyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Bakuchiol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide Ng, Cetearyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Diutan Gum, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Palmitate, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Phytosterols, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopherol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!