Skin science article
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Versus Dr. Brandt Skincare Needles No More Wrinkle Smoothing Cream
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Versus Dr. Brandt Skincare Needles No More Wrinkle Smoothing Cream This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging moisturizer is for
Medik8 Liquid Peptides Versus Dr. Brandt Skincare Needles No More Wrinkle Smoothing Cream
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Carnosine and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Inulin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Carnosine
Carbomer
Polysorbate 20
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Citric Acid
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Sodium Benzoate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tetrapeptide-21
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Pantolactone
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Glyceryl Caprylate
Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Phenylpropanol
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate
Potassium Sorbate
Xanthan Gum
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Inulin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Carnosine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetrapeptide-21, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Pantolactone, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Glyceryl Caprylate, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum
Perfluorohexane
Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Perfluorodecalin
C12-16 Alcohols
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Isopropyl Palmitate
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Adenosine
Tocopherol
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Magnesium Gluconate
Prolinamidoethyl Imidazole
Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52
Lactic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Palmitic Acid
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearic Acid
Cetearyl Alcohol
Lecithin
Sodium Hydroxide
Menthone Glycerin Acetal
P-Anisic Acid
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Phytate
Silanediol Salicylate
Tromethamine
Methylpropanediol
Linalool
Water, Perfluorohexane, Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Perfluorodecalin, C12-16 Alcohols, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glycerin, Isopropyl Palmitate, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Magnesium Gluconate, Prolinamidoethyl Imidazole, Butylene Glycol, Glutamylamidoethyl Imidazole, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Caprylate, Menthone Glycerin Acetal, P-Anisic Acid, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Phytate, Silanediol Salicylate, Tromethamine, Methylpropanediol, Linalool
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
We don't have a description for Polyvinyl Alcohol yet.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.