Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Merit Beauty Great Skin Instant Glow Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum

Merit Beauty Great Skin Instant Glow Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and brighten dull-looking skin. This hydrating serum is form

Merit Beauty Great Skin Instant Glow Serum Versus Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and brighten dull-looking skin.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Squalane and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isononyl Isononanoate

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Tocopherol

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Dextrin

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isononyl Isononanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Dextrin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glycerin

Squalane

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acmella Oleracea Extract

Ectoin

Tetrapeptide-30

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52

Copper PCA

Panthenol

Sodium Polyglutamate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Squalane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Ectoin, Tetrapeptide-30, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Copper PCA, Panthenol, Sodium Polyglutamate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Passiflora Incarnata Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract is the extract from the flowers of the aloe vera plant. In cosmetics, it functions as a skin conditioning agent.
  4. 04Here's the honest part: most of the famous "aloe" research is on the leaf and this flower extract is much less studied. It shouldn't be assumed to do everything the gel is known for.
  5. 05However, there is a small body of flower-specific research that is interesting to take a look at.
  6. 06The flowers of Aloe vera contain volatile compounds and ascorbic acid. And when researchers looked closer, they found the flower is rich in antioxidants called phenolics that lined up with the extract's strong antioxidant activity.
  7. 07This extract also showed some ability to fight off a common bacteria (Pseudomonas aeruginosa) in lab tests.
  8. 08In lab and mouse studies, those phenolic compounds behaved like solid antioxidants though human skin trials on the flower extract are still needed.
  9. 09Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty assuring. The CIR Expert Panel deems this ingredient safe in current practices of use and only rare cases of acute eczema, contact urticaria, and dermatitis have been reported.
  10. 10Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract is also known as Ivy Gourd Fruit Extract. It has skin conditioning properties.
  11. 11The fruit is rich in flavonoids, phenolic acids, terpenoids, and sterols that show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect in vitro. This is because the fruit contains a thick mucilage that forms a protective and soothing layer on the skin's surface.
  12. 12The extract itself has demonstrated antioxidant, soothing, and potential anti-allergy properties.
  13. 13Most of this research is done in vitro and dedicated clinical studies on topical application are still limited.
  14. 14Corallina Officinalis Extract comes from the small red seaweed that grows on rocky coastlines that feels stiff to the touch because it builds calcium carbonate right into its cell walls.
  15. 15That mineral content is basically its whole selling point: the extract brings calcium, magnesium, and trace minerals along with sugars (polysaccharides) and proteins. This is why formulators use it as a skin-conditioning and hydrating ingredient.
  16. 16Lab testing does back up decent antioxidant activity for this species. A study comparing twelve red seaweeds found Corallina Officinalis stood out for its free-radical scavenging capacity. And a separate study found meaningful radical scavenging plu…
  17. 17It's worth being clear that most of this is test-tube work on raw-algae and not a clinical trial on a finished cream.
  18. 18On concentration, a 2020 industry survey found it's used at up to 2% in makeup and skincare. Safety-wise, it's as boring as it gets: the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concluded this ingredient (along with the powder, Thallus Extract, and H…
  19. 19There's no meaningful record of it causing allergic contact dermatitis, but be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
  20. 20You'll see algae/seaweed listed as a 5/5 on a lot of pore-clogging charts and that number doesn't come from anywhere; it's not in the original rabbit-ear studies that most comedogenic ratings trace back to.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side