Skin science article
Miguhara Ultra Whitening First Essence Origin Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
Miguhara Ultra Whitening First Essence Origin Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water This brightening essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This calming essence is formulate
Miguhara Ultra Whitening First Essence Origin Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water
This brightening essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This calming essence is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Betaine
Butylene Glycol
Panthenol
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Xanthan Gum
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Malt Extract
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Sodium Hyaluronate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Beta-Glucan
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Caprylyl Glycol
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Juniperus Mexicana Oil
Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil
Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment
Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract
Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
Aloe Arborescens Leaf Extract
Carum Petroselinum Extract
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Phyllostachys Nigra Leaf Extract
Brassica Oleracea Gemmifera Extract
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract
Yeast Beta-Glucan
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Malt Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Morinda Citrifolia Fruit Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Aloe Arborescens Leaf Extract, Carum Petroselinum Extract, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Phyllostachys Nigra Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Gemmifera Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Laminaria Japonica Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Water
Propanediol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Glyceryl Glucoside
Allantoin
Adenosine
Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Dextrin
Glucose
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Panax Ginseng Root Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Adenosine, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Glucose, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.