Milk Makeup Vegan Milk Moisturizer Versus IMAGE skincare Ilium Intense Brightening Crème

Milk Makeup Vegan Milk Moisturizer Versus IMAGE skincare Ilium Intense Brightening Crème

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening night moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Cetyl Alcohol

Squalane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Stearic Acid

Butylene Glycol

Stearyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Glyceryl Stearate

Glycerin

Isocetyl Stearate

Myristyl Myristate

Pentylene Glycol

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil

Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phospholipids

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Ceteth-20

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Diheptyl Succinate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium Stearate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glyceryl Caprylate

Glyceryl Undecylenate

Polysorbate 60

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Xanthan Gum

Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Carbomer

Propanediol

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Glycolate

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Stearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Isocetyl Stearate, Myristyl Myristate, Pentylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phospholipids, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ceteth-20, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Polysorbate 60, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Propanediol, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Glycolate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol

Bellis Perennis Flower Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

PEG-100 Stearate

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Limonene

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ceteth-10 Phosphate

Dicetyl Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Hexylene Glycol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Aminomethyl Propanol

Alcohol Denat.

Phenethyl Alcohol

Lecithin

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil

Methyl Undecylenoyl Dipeptide-16

Disodium Phosphate

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract

Citral

Tocopherol

Ergothioneine

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bellis Perennis Flower Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Limonene, Phenoxyethanol, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Polysorbate 60, Alcohol Denat., Phenethyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Methyl Undecylenoyl Dipeptide-16, Disodium Phosphate, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Citral, Tocopherol, Ergothioneine

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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