Skin science article
Missha MISA Yehyun Jinbon Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
Missha MISA Yehyun Jinbon Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated aro
Missha MISA Yehyun Jinbon Eye Cream Versus COSRX Advanced Snail Peptide Eye Cream
This barrier-repair eye moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Propanediol
Squalane
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Panthenol
Stearic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Pinus Thunbergii Branch/Leaf Extract
Ethyl Hexanediol
Tricholoma Matsutake Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Poria Cocos Extract
Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Honey Extract
Butylene Glycol
Beta-Sitosterol
Brassica Campestris Sterols
PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol
Choleth-24
Ceteth-24
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ceramide NP
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Angelica Dahurica Root Extract
Adenophora Stricta Root Extract
Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract
Coptis Japonica Extract
Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract
Fritillaria Verticillata Bulb Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Papaver Rhoeas Petal Extract
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Beeswax
Dextrin
Cetyl Phosphate
Lecithin
Glyceryl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Glyceryl Linoleate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Polysorbate 20
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Arachidonate
Adenosine
Sorbitan Isostearate
Alcohol Denat.
BHT
Benzophenone-5
Chlorphenesin
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
1,2-Hexanediol
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Propanediol, Squalane, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Panthenol, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Pinus Thunbergii Branch/Leaf Extract, Ethyl Hexanediol, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Honey Extract, Butylene Glycol, Beta-Sitosterol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Choleth-24, Ceteth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Angelica Dahurica Root Extract, Adenophora Stricta Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract, Coptis Japonica Extract, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Fritillaria Verticillata Bulb Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Papaver Rhoeas Petal Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Beeswax, Dextrin, Cetyl Phosphate, Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polysorbate 20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Alcohol Denat., BHT, Benzophenone-5, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Parfum
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Niacinamide
Arginine
Carbomer
Betaine
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Sodium Polyacrylate
Allantoin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Myristic Acid
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Water, Palmitic Acid, Arginine, Carbomer, Stearic Acid, Betaine, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Myristic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!