Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Missha Time Revolution Prismestem100 Lifting Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum

Missha Time Revolution Prismestem100 Lifting Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair seru

Missha Time Revolution Prismestem100 Lifting Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

Betaine

Glycereth-26

Methyl Gluceth-20

Niacinamide

Pentylene Glycol

Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Xylitylglucoside

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Anhydroxylitol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Angelica Archangelica Callus Extract

Tromethamine

1,2-Hexanediol

Xylitol

Butylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Ethylhexylglycerin

Octanediol

Adenosine

Parfum

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Phytate

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Beta-Glucan

Tocopherol

Hydroxystearic Acid

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Maltodextrin

Dipropylene Glycol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Swertia Chirata Extract

Choleth-24

Ceramide NP

Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Betaine, Glycereth-26, Methyl Gluceth-20, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Water, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Anhydroxylitol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Angelica Archangelica Callus Extract, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xylitol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octanediol, Adenosine, Parfum, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Hydroxystearic Acid, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Maltodextrin, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Swertia Chirata Extract, Choleth-24, Ceramide NP

Bifida Ferment Lysate

PEG-8

Propanediol

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

PEG-75

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Tripeptide-32

Sodium Hyaluronate

Faex Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Caffeine

Lecithin

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Squalane

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Oleth-3

Oleth-5

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Ceteth-24

Tocopheryl Acetate

Carbomer

Triethanolamine

Tetrasodium EDTA

BHT

Potassium Sorbate

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, PEG-8, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Faex Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

Reviews

Be the first to review

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Choleth-24 comes from the cholesterol of lanolins. It is used as an emulsifier, or to help stabilize other ingredients.

This ingredient is soluble in both water and alcohol.

Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.

It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.

As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Methyl Gluceth-20 is a humectant. Humectants help draw moisture from the air to your skin.

It is created by combining polyethylene glycol with glucose.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Lise Watier Sublimessence High Firming Lifting SerumIngredients explained

  1. 01Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  2. 02It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  3. 03Expand to read more
  4. 04Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  5. 05One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  6. 06It's a type of glycol that - according to the manufacturer - is an extremely good replacement for other glycols like propylene or butylene glycol. Its main job is to be a solvent, but it has also very good antimicrobial properties and acts as a true…
  7. 07A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  8. 08A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  9. 09Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  10. 10Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  11. 11High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  12. 12A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by ever…
  13. 13A type of clay mineral that works as a nice helper ingredient to thicken and stabilize formulas. As a clay, it consists of platelets that have a negative charge on the surface (face) and a positive on the edge. So the face of one platelet attracts t…
  14. 14As the "house of card" structure takes some time to form but collapses quickly if the formula is stirred, products thickened with MAS can be thick in the jar but become easily spreadable upon application (called thixotropy). MAS also gives nice sens…
  15. 15Glyceryl stearate citrate is similar to the super common skincare ingredient glyceryl stearate, and is similarly used to help combine waters and oils (emulsifier) and to make your skin feel nice and soft (emollient).
  16. 16The main difference between glyceryl stearate citrate and its cousin glyceryl stearate is that this one has a citric acid molecule also attached to its glycerin. This makes it what chemists call a diacylglycerol, which is a fancy word for two acids …
  17. 17A white powdery thing that's the major component of glass and sand. In cosmetics, it’s often in products that are supposed to keep your skin matte as it has great oil-absorbing abilities. It’s also used as a helper ingredient to thicken up products …
  18. 18Probably the most common silicone of all. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thick liquid.
  19. 19As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it's…
  20. 20As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build…
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Kedma Lifting Serum

Kedma Lifting Serum Kedma Lifting Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Demineralized) Water, Sea Water (From The Dead Sea), Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin,…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side