Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 95 + Peptide Essence

Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 95 + Peptide Essence This barrier-repair essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and brighten dull-looking skin. This barrier-repair

Missha Time Revolution The First Essence 5X Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 95 + Peptide Essence

This barrier-repair essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Bifida Ferment Lysate to strengthen the skin barrier and brighten dull-looking skin.

This barrier-repair essence is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Yeast Ferment Extract

Diethoxyethyl Succinate

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Sodium PCA

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Xanthan Gum

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Yeast Ferment Extract, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin

Snail Secretion Filtrate

Betaine

Ethyl Hexanediol

Allantoin

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Polyacrylate

Carbomer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Panthenol

Arginine

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Snail Secretion Filtrate, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Ethyl Hexanediol, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Adenosine, Arginine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
  10. 10It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
  11. 11Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
  12. 12A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
  13. 13Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
  14. 14One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
  15. 15Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
  16. 16Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
  17. 17Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
  18. 18Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
  19. 19Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
  20. 20Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side