Skin science article
Mixsoon Bean Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
Mixsoon Bean Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This acne seru
Mixsoon Bean Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Butylene Glycol
Diisostearyl Malate
Vinyldimethicone
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate
Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate
Panthenol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Stearic Acid
Palmitic Acid
Oleic Acid
Cetearyl Alcohol
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sorbitan Isostearate
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Propanediol
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Polyacrylate
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Diisostearyl Malate, Vinyldimethicone, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sorbitan Isostearate, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Propanediol, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Polyacrylate
Propolis Extract
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Betaine Salicylate
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Caprylyl Glycol
Dextrin
Pentylene Glycol
Octanediol
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Corallina Officinalis Extract is from the red seaweed, Corallina Officinalis. This seaweed is found all over the world but is most common in the rocky shores of Great Britain and Ireland.
Corallina Officinalis Extract contains antioxidant and emollient properties.
Extracted polysaccharides, galactose and xylose, in red algae showed antioxidant activity. Antioxidants help with anti-aging by neutralizing free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and DNA. Galactose is also a PHA.
Corallina Officinalis is structurally similar to coral due to its high calcium content.
Curcuma Longa Root Extract comes from the rhizome (underground stem) of the turmeric plant.
While the official EU Cosing Database lists this ingredient as a fragrance, it actually does more than give products a scent.
This ingredient contains a group of yellow pigments called curcuminoids (mostly curcumin) that give it genuine antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in skin.
Reviews of topical clinical studies have found turmeric/curcumin to be generally well-tolerated and useful across conditions like eczema and mild inflammation.
One thing working in its favor is that curcumin barely penetrates; in lab skin-permeation testing, the curcuminoids mostly stayed in the outermost layer of skin. This is a good thing because its soothing and antioxidant activity is a surface-level job anyway.
At this time, industry data shows there's no single "correct" cosmetic percentage. It's used across a wide range depending on the product and varies from tiny fractions of a percent up to a few percent.
Allergy-wise, curcumin is a documented (but uncommon) contact allergen. It can also cross react with related plants, so anyone with a turmeric/ginger/cinnamon allergy or reactive skin should patch test first.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract is from the Neem tree. Neem trees originate from India.
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
The flowers of this tree are lilac colored.
This ingredient is also known as neem leaf extract. It contains natural compounds like nimbidin, quercetin, and other polyphenols that give it antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory activity.
Lab studies have shown neem leaf extract can inhibit acne-related bacteria and help calm skin. Animal studies on wound gels using 1-3% neem leaf extract found it sped up healing without causing irritation.
A wound-healing study testing gels with the extract at 1%, 2%, and 3% concentrations and found none of them irritated the skin.
Most commercial products also use it in a similar low range (typically under 5%).
Allergy-wise, there are some case reports on neem oil causing allergic contact dermatitis so people with plant/botanical sensitivities may want to patch test first.
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract comes from the Holy Basil plant. Holy Basil is native to India.
Holy Basil is rich in antioxidants due to its high romarinic acid, ferulic acid, and rutin content. This gives it skin brightening and soothing properties.
While Holy Basil has many claims to help fight acne, more research is needed.
One thing to note is the presence of tannins; tannins are naturally found in nature. However, this compound may be skin-sensitizing.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!