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Skin science article

Mizon 0.1% Retinol Youth Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment

Mizon 0.1% Retinol Youth Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Te

Mizon 0.1% Retinol Youth Serum Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Bakuchiol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Niacinamide

Glycerin

Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate

Cyclodextrin

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hydroxyacetophenone

Bakuchiol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glyceryl Stearate

Polyisobutene

Sodium Polyacrylate

Panthenol

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Squalane

Pullulan

BHT

Dipropylene Glycol

Polysorbate 20

Alcohol

Retinol

Citric Acid

Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract

Gleditsia Australis Fruit Extract

Sophora Flavescens Root Extract

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Adenosine

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Sorbitan Oleate

Xanthan Gum

Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Ceteth-5

Ceteth-3

Larix Leptolepis Bark Extract

Poterium Officinale Root Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Cholesterol

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Porphyridium Cruentum Extract

Hexapeptide-61 Dimer

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Glucose

Copper Tripeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15

Disodium EDTA

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Water, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate, Cyclodextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxyacetophenone, Bakuchiol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyisobutene, Sodium Polyacrylate, Panthenol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Squalane, Pullulan, BHT, Dipropylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Alcohol, Retinol, Citric Acid, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Gleditsia Australis Fruit Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Adenosine, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ceteth-5, Ceteth-3, Larix Leptolepis Bark Extract, Poterium Officinale Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cholesterol, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Hexapeptide-61 Dimer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glucose, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-15, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Dimethicone

Butylene Glycol

Isononyl Isononanoate

Castor Isostearate Succinate

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

PEG-33

Behenyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Ceramide Ng

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Arctium Lappa Seed Oil

Salix Alba Extract

Glycine Soja Sterols

Lecithin

Allantoin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Sorbitan Laurate

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Sodium Hydroxide

Tribehenin

Ethylhexylglycerin

PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

PEG-10 Phytosterol

PEG-8 Dimethicone

PEG-14

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Arachidyl Glucoside

Arachidyl Alcohol

Sclerotium Gum

Carbomer

Phenoxyethanol

Benzoic Acid

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).

It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.

That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.

Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.

Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.

Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.

Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.

The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.

Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.

In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:

That last two are worth a closer look.

A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.

Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.

So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).

It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.

The research backs this up as well.

A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.

Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).

Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.

Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.

One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.

It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.

Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.

This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.

Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.

The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.

Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  4. 04Isopropyl Isostearate
  5. 05Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
  6. 06Glyceryl Stearate Se
  7. 07Cetearyl Alcohol
  8. 08Palmitic Acid
  9. 09Stearic Acid
  10. 10Pentylene Glycol
  11. 11Plantago Lanceolata Leaf Extract
  12. 12Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
  13. 13Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil
  14. 14Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
  15. 15Schinziophyton Rautanenii Kernel Oil
  16. 16Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  17. 17Polyglyceryl-6 Ximenia Americana Seedate
  18. 18Cholesterol
  19. 19Ceramide AP
  20. 20Ceramide EOP
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side