Skin science article
Mizon Collagen Power Firming Eye Cream Versus Mizon Snail Repair Perfect Cream
Mizon Collagen Power Firming Eye Cream Versus Mizon Snail Repair Perfect Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Snail Sec
Mizon Collagen Power Firming Eye Cream Versus Mizon Snail Repair Perfect Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Dimethicone
Caprylyl Methicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Chloride
PEG-10 Dimethicone
Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Sodium Citrate
PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Dipropylene Glycol
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Tocopherol
Mangifera Indica Seed Butter
Honey Extract
Beta-Glucan
Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Glycine
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Serine
Glutamic Acid
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
Aspartic Acid
Leucine
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Alanine
Lysine
Arginine
Tyrosine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Threonine
Valine
Isoleucine
Histidine
Cysteine
Methionine
Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Copper Tripeptide-1
Ceramide NP
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Chloride, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Sodium Citrate, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Dipropylene Glycol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopherol, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Honey Extract, Beta-Glucan, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Glycine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP
Cetearyl Alcohol
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Propanediol
Niacinamide
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Polyacrylate-13
Sorbitan Stearate
Polyisobutene
Palmitic Acid
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Stearic Acid
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Polysorbate 20
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sucrose
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract
Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
Phenoxyethanol
Parfum
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Stearate, Polyisobutene, Palmitic Acid, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Beta-Glucan, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Adenosine, Sucrose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.
Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.
As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.
Cyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!