Skin science article
Moon Juice Acid potion Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Moon Juice Acid potion Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Sa
Moon Juice Acid potion Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
This smoothing toner is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Niacinamide to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycolic Acid
Phytic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Niacinamide
Propanediol
Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether
Lactic Acid
Salicylic Acid
Allantoin
Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Tocotrienols
Glycerin
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Tocopherol
Salvia Sclarea Oil
Citric Acid
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Water, Glycolic Acid, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Glycereth-7 Trimethyl Ether, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Allantoin, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Tocotrienols, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Tocopherol, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Citric Acid, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Azelaic Acid
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Bisabolol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!