Skin science article
Murad Clarifying Water Gel Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer
Murad Clarifying Water Gel Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer This acne moisturizer is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Urea to clear breakouts and balance excess oil. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinami
Murad Clarifying Water Gel Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Clear Oil-Free Moisturizer
This acne moisturizer is formulated around Salicylic Acid and Urea to clear breakouts and balance excess oil.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Dimethicone
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tapioca Starch
Diisopropyl Sebacate
Salicylic Acid
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Bisabolol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Lysolecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Polyisobutene
Polysilicone-11
Polydextrose
Dextrin
Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Pullulan
Xanthan Gum
Amylopectin
Niacinamide
Serine
Butylene Glycol
PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 60
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Algin
Disodium Phosphate
Silica
Dipropylene Glycol
Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract
Decyl Glucoside
Potassium Phosphate
Lactobacillus Ferment
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Caprylyl Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Citric Acid
Phenoxyethanol
Benzoic Acid
Limonene
Hydroxycitronellal
Parfum
Water, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tapioca Starch, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Salicylic Acid, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Polyisobutene, Polysilicone-11, Polydextrose, Dextrin, Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Amylopectin, Niacinamide, Serine, Butylene Glycol, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Algin, Disodium Phosphate, Silica, Dipropylene Glycol, Pinus Densiflora Leaf Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Potassium Phosphate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Parfum
Ethyl Macadamiate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Triethylhexanoin
Sodium Acrylates Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract
Tripeptide-29
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Adenosine
Lecithin
Arginine
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Sodium Gluconate
Isohexadecane
Carbomer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Ethyl Macadamiate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Hydrolyzed Pumpkin Seedcake, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Prunus Serotina Fruit Extract, Niacinamide, Tripeptide-29, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Adenosine, Lecithin, Arginine, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Gluconate, Citric Acid, Isohexadecane, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.