Skin science article
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum Versus StriVectin Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum Versus StriVectin Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. This anti-aging serum is form
Murad Retinol Youth Renewal Serum Versus StriVectin Peptide Plump Line Filling Bounce Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cyclopentasiloxane
Isopropyl Palmitate
C14-22 Alcohols
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Dimethicone
Propanediol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Retinol
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Ceramide NP
Sodium Hyaluronate
Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Swertia Chirata Extract
Squalane
Punica Granatum Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Glycine Soja Extract
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Silica
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
Butylene Glycol
Lecithin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
Cetyl Palmitate
Laureth-23
Polysorbate 20
Trideceth-6 Phosphate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Chlorphenesin
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate
CI 77891
CI 14700
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Citronellol
Parfum
Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Isopropyl Palmitate, C14-22 Alcohols, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Swertia Chirata Extract, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycine Soja Extract, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Silica, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Polysorbate 20, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate, CI 77891, CI 14700, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Citronellol, Parfum
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract
Glyceryl Ricinoleate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Olea Europaea Leaf Extract
Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract
Pentapeptide-84 Amide Acetate
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Beta-Glucan
Myristyl Nicotinate
Citric Acid
Biotin
Tocopherol
1,2-Hexanediol
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Polyisobutene
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Polysilicone-11
Sorbitan Isostearate
Glyceryl Polyacrylate
Polysorbate 80
PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
Hydroxyacetophenone
Pentylene Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Adenosine
Carbomer
Sodium Citrate
Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Limonene
Linalool
CI 17200
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane/Silica Crosspolymer, Betaine, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Extract, Pentapeptide-84 Amide Acetate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Beta-Glucan, Myristyl Nicotinate, Citric Acid, Biotin, Tocopherol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyisobutene, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysilicone-11, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Polysorbate 80, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Adenosine, Carbomer, Sodium Citrate, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Phenoxyethanol, CI 17200
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Dimethyl Isosorbide (often shortened to DMI) is a sugar-derived solvent made from sorbitol. It's used to dissolve tricky ingredients and help them mix smoothly into a formula.
Many actives sit as gritty crystals when undissolved, so DMI swoops in to full dissolve them. This helps improve texture, stability, and how evenly an active is distributed.
It does have a penetration-enhancing reputation that is a bit more nuanced than marketing suggests; a cell study on human skin found that 10% DMI didn't significantly boost the permeation of Hydroquinone, Salicylic Acid, or Octadecenedioic Acid compared to controls (though it did improve their solubility in the formula itself).
Typical usage concentrations usually range from 1-10% depending on the formula's needs; this ingredient is also well tolerated at these levels.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!