Skin science article
Murad Time Release Acne Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser
Murad Time Release Acne Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser This mild cream cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped. This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear brea
Murad Time Release Acne Cleanser Versus The INKEY List Salicylic Acid Cleanser
This mild cream cleanser is mild enough to cleanse without leaving skin feeling tight or stripped.
This salicylic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate
Glycerin
Cetyl Alcohol
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cetearyl Alcohol
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Retinol
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Ascorbic Acid
Chitosan
Silver Citrate
Sodium PCA
Betaine
Sorbitol
Glycine
Alanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Arginine
Lysine
Glutamic Acid
Zinc Gluconate
Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract
Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Zea Mays Starch
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch
Hydrolyzed Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate
Citric Acid
Disodium EDTA
Propyl Gallate
Polysorbate 80
Menthol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glycol Distearate
Steareth-4
PEG-150 Distearate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Parfum
Water, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Retinol, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Chitosan, Silver Citrate, Sodium PCA, Betaine, Sorbitol, Glycine, Alanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Arginine, Lysine, Glutamic Acid, Zinc Gluconate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Cocamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Zea Mays Starch, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch Octenylsuccinate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Propyl Gallate, Polysorbate 80, Menthol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycol Distearate, Steareth-4, PEG-150 Distearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Parfum
Propanediol
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
Salicylic Acid
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
Zinc PCA
Sodium Chloride
Allantoin
Sodium Hydroxide
Coco-Glucoside
Glyceryl Oleate
Benzyl Alcohol
Coconut Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Benzoate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Tocopherol
Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Salicylic Acid, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Betaine, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Benzyl Alcohol, Coconut Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is used to help stabilize a product.
It is a chelating agent, meaning it helps prevent metal ions from binding to other ingredients. This prevents unwanted reactions in products. Metal ions can come into a product via the water ingredient. They are found in trace amounts and are not known to be harmful.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!