Skin science article
Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream
Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This bright
Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector Versus Derma E Vitamin C No Dark Circles Perfecting Eye Cream
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
CI 77891
Niacinamide
Ascorbic Acid
Urea
Yeast Amino Acids
Trehalose
Inositol
Taurine
Betaine
Glutathione
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Glucosyl Hesperidin
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Xymenynic Acid
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Mica
Triheptanoin
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate
Sorbitol
Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract
C13-16 Isoparaffin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polyisobutene
Silica
Hexylene Glycol
PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
Acetyl Zingerone
Asparagopsis Armata Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Hordeum Vulgare Extract
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Xanthan Gum
Cucumis Sativus Extract
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane
Gold
Caprylyl Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
CI 77492
CI 77491
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Glutathione, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Xymenynic Acid, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Mica, Triheptanoin, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Sorbitol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyisobutene, Silica, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Acetyl Zingerone, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane, Gold, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77492, CI 77491
Coco-Caprylate
Titanium Dioxide
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cocoglycerides
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Ceteareth-6 Olivate
Diethylhexyl Succinate
Lauryl Glucoside
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Kaolin
Bentonite
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Curcumin
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Panthenol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Jojoba Esters
Sodium Phytate
Alumina
Caffeine
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil
Benzyl Acetate
Geraniol
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Citral
Linalool
Decanal
Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil
Potassium Sorbate
Tin Oxide
Iron Oxides
Water, Coco-Caprylate, Titanium Dioxide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cocoglycerides, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Diethylhexyl Succinate, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Kaolin, Bentonite, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Triheptanoin, Curcumin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Mica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Jojoba Esters, Sodium Phytate, Alumina, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Caffeine, Silica, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Citrus Reticulata Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Reticulata Leaf Oil, Benzyl Acetate, Geraniol, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Citral, Linalool, Decanal, Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil, Potassium Sorbate, Tin Oxide, Iron Oxides, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is from brown seaweed that grows in the northern Atlantic Ocean. It is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage our skin cells.
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is also used to enhance the texture of products.
Asparagopsis Armata Extract is from seaweed. It is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight off free-radical molecules. These molecules damage our cells.
Asparagopsis Armata Extract may also be used to enhance the texture of products.
Ongoing research shows Asparagopsis Armata Extract may have antimicrobial properties.
This ingredient is a solvent, texture enhancer, and emollient.
Solvents help other ingredients dissolve in a product. It adds a 'silky' texture to products and is thus considered a silicone alternative.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.
Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.
As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.
It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.
Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
We don't have a description for Triheptanoin yet.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.