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Skin science article

Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream

Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin. This anti-aging eye moistu

Murad Vita-C Eyes Dark Circle Corrector Versus La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbic Acid to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Madecassoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

CI 77891

Niacinamide

Ascorbic Acid

Urea

Yeast Amino Acids

Trehalose

Inositol

Taurine

Betaine

Glutathione

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Glucosyl Hesperidin

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Xymenynic Acid

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Mica

Triheptanoin

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Sorbitol

Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract

C13-16 Isoparaffin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyisobutene

Silica

Hexylene Glycol

PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether

Acetyl Zingerone

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Trimethylsiloxysilicate

PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane

Gold

Caprylyl Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

CI 77492

CI 77491

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, CI 77891, Niacinamide, Ascorbic Acid, Urea, Yeast Amino Acids, Trehalose, Inositol, Taurine, Betaine, Glutathione, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Xymenynic Acid, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Mica, Triheptanoin, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Sorbitol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyisobutene, Silica, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Acetyl Zingerone, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, PEG-8 Methyl Ether Triethoxysilane, Gold, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77492, CI 77491

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Mannose

Butylene Glycol

Paraffinum Liquidum

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Potassium Hydroxide

Paraffin

Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer

Microcrystalline Wax

Madecassoside

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethiconol

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Mannose, Butylene Glycol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Potassium Hydroxide, Paraffin, Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Madecassoside, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:

Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.

One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.

While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.

The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.

Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.

Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.
  4. 04This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.
  5. 05Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.
  6. 06Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.
  7. 07Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer made from ammonium salts. It works as a thickener, emulsifier, and texture enhancer that gives gel-creams a silky, lightweight feel.
  8. 08This ingredient is versatile and low-maintenance so manufacturers love working with it.
  9. 09Typical usage levels in cosmetics are usually low and in the range of 0.015 - 2.3%.
  10. 10Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  11. 11Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  12. 12Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  13. 13This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  14. 14Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  15. 15In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  16. 16Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  17. 17Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  18. 18While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  19. 19This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  20. 20Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

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Comparison edit

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