Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10% Versus Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum

Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10% Versus Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum This calming emulsion is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots. This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl

Naturium Azelaic Acid Emulsion 10% Versus Geek & Gorgeous aPAD 20% Azeclair Serum

This calming emulsion is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Niacinamide to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.

This calming serum is formulated around Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to calm redness and balance excess oil.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Azelaic Acid

Butylene Glycol

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methylpropanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Isostearyl Alcohol

C13-15 Alkane

Ethylhexyl Olivate

Butylene Glycol Cocoate

Niacinamide

Allantoin

Sebacic Acid

Acetyl Rheum Rhaponticum Root Extract

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil

Bidens Pilosa Extract

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Carbomer

Hydroxyacetophenone

Silica

Benzyl Alcohol

Panthenyl Triacetate

Xanthan Gum

Sodium Hydroxide

Ethylcellulose

Squalane

Ethylhexylglycerin

Lactobacillus Ferment

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Tocopherol

Water, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Isostearyl Alcohol, C13-15 Alkane, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Butylene Glycol Cocoate, Niacinamide, Allantoin, Sebacic Acid, Acetyl Rheum Rhaponticum Root Extract, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Silica, Benzyl Alcohol, Panthenyl Triacetate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylcellulose, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tocopherol

Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate

Propanediol

Methyl Gluceth-20

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-20, Allantoin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Propanediol
  5. 05Pentylene Glycol
  6. 06Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  7. 07Niacinamide
  8. 08Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
  9. 09Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-2
  10. 10Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
  11. 11Sodium Hyaluronate
  12. 12Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
  13. 13Centella Asiatica Extract
  14. 14Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
  15. 15Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
  16. 16Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  17. 17Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  18. 18Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
  19. 19Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
  20. 20Xanthan Gum
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side