Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ PDRN Glow Boosting Toner

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging toner is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium DNA to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isopentyldiol

Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Squalane

Tetradecane

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Ferulic Acid

Arginine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Glycerin

Tocopherol

Pullulan

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Dimethicone

Sodium Phytate

Diglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Silica

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Decyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Tetradecane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Methylpropanediol

Niacinamide

PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer

1,2-Hexanediol

Tripropylene Glycol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Xylitylglucoside

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Anhydroxylitol

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

C20-40 Pareth-10

Xylitol

Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium DNA

Glucose

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Ceramide NP

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Citrate

Phytosterols

Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

T-Butyl Alcohol

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Butylene Glycol

Adenosine Triphosphate

Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide

Resveratrol

Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate

Palmitic Acid

C12-14 Alketh-12

Pisum Sativum Peptide

Stearic Acid

Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Dextran

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Soluble Collagen

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract

Disodium EDTA

Myristic Acid

Mannose

Sh-Octapeptide-4

Sh-Decapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Arachidic Acid

Collagen

Elastin

Glutathione

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide

Oligopeptide-29

Oligopeptide-32

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1

Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Dipeptide-4

Hexapeptide-11

Hexapeptide-12

Lauric Acid

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17

Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16

Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Nonapeptide-7

Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26

Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23

Octapeptide-2

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Pentapeptide-13

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1)

Tetrapeptide-44

Tetrapeptide-30

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Tripeptide-32

Tripeptide-29

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Sh-Polypeptide-62

Water, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tripropylene Glycol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xylitylglucoside, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Anhydroxylitol, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, C20-40 Pareth-10, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xylitol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium DNA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glucose, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Sodium Phytate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Citrate, Phytosterols, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, T-Butyl Alcohol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Butylene Glycol, Adenosine Triphosphate, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Resveratrol, Pullulan, Sodium Palmitoyl Sarcosinate, Palmitic Acid, C12-14 Alketh-12, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Stearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Dextran, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Soluble Collagen, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Disodium EDTA, Myristic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Mannose, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Arachidic Acid, Collagen, Elastin, Glutathione, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Sh-Pentapeptide-1, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Hexapeptide-12, Lauric Acid, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-4, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-7, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-35, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-26, Nicotinoyl Dipeptide-23, Octapeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pentapeptide-13, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-29, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Sr-(Oligopeptide-91 Clostridium Botulinum Polypeptide-1), Tetrapeptide-44, Tetrapeptide-30, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tripeptide-32, Tripeptide-29, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-62

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Hydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.

In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.

The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.

This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.

It's worth being realistic here:

Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).

However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.

Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).

Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.

If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Pullulan is a low viscosity polysaccharide (a long chain carbohydrate) with binding and film forming properties when dissolved in water. It is used to create a "silicone-like" or silky feel in cosmetics without adding viscosity.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's ability to easily dissolves makes it a great carrier for active ingredients.

Due to it being edible and tasteless, you'll likely find this ingredient in breath freshener strips. This ingredient is produced from the starch of the fungus, Aureobasidium pullulans.

Pullulan is stable over a broad-range of pH.

Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.

Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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