Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and

Naturium Multi-Peptide Advanced Serum Versus Theramid Derma-Peptides 22% Treatment

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Ferulic Acid to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Isopentyldiol

Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate

Squalane

Tetradecane

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Helianthus Annuus Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Mannitol

Phosphatidylcholine

Ferulic Acid

Arginine

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Glycerin

Tocopherol

Pullulan

Lysolecithin

Sclerotium Gum

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Dimethicone

Sodium Phytate

Diglycerin

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Silica

Cetyl Alcohol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Sodium Hydroxide

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Decyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Chloride

Citric Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Propanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Isopentyldiol, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Tetradecane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Mannitol, Phosphatidylcholine, Ferulic Acid, Arginine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Sh-Heptapeptide-12 Sp, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopherol, Pullulan, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Dimethicone, Sodium Phytate, Diglycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Silica, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Chloride, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol

Jojoba Esters

Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Ethyl Macadamiate

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters

Tricaprylin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-1

Ceramide Ng

Sodium Hyaluronate

Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract

Malic Acid

Ethylhexylglycerin

Lecithin

Acetyl Glutamine

Carbomer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Caprylyl Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Pentylene Glycol

Sodium Lactate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Phosphoric Acid

Butylene Glycol

Lactic Acid

Polysorbate 20

Water, Jojoba Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethyl Macadamiate, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Tricaprylin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Ceramide Ng, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Tocopherol, Malic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Acetyl Glutamine, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Silica, Sodium Lactate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phosphoric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.

You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.

You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.

You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  4. 04What it does:
  5. 05Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
  6. 06Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
  7. 07Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
  8. 08This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
  9. 09Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
  10. 10Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  11. 11Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  12. 12Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  13. 13Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  14. 14This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  15. 15Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  16. 16Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  17. 17Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
  18. 18Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
  19. 19Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
  20. 20It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

naturium Multi-peptide Advanced Serum

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Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side