Skin science article
Naturium Multi-Peptide Eye Cream Versus Tula Skincare Instant De-Puff Eye Renewal Serum
Naturium Multi-Peptide Eye Cream Versus Tula Skincare Instant De-Puff Eye Renewal Serum This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging eye moisturizer is fo
Naturium Multi-Peptide Eye Cream Versus Tula Skincare Instant De-Puff Eye Renewal Serum
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Stearic Acid
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Stearyl Alcohol
Palmitic Acid
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sorbitan Oleate
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
Butylene Glycol
1,2-Hexanediol
Boron Nitride
Caprylyl Glycol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Isohexadecane
Chlorphenesin
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Hydroxide
Polysorbate 80
Carbomer
Sodium Lactate
Polysorbate 20
Citric Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pantolactone
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sorbitan Oleate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Boron Nitride, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Isohexadecane, Chlorphenesin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pantolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Camelina Sativa Seed Oil
Silybum Marianum Seed Oil
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract
Avena Sativa Bran Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Cichorium Intybus Root Extract
Algae Extract
Bacillus Ferment
Olus Oil
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Lactic Acid
Yogurt Powder
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Darutoside
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Silica
Xanthan Gum
Inulin
Sodium Chloride
Sorbic Acid
Hexylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
CI 77891
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Camelina Sativa Seed Oil, Silybum Marianum Seed Oil, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Avena Sativa Bran Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Algae Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Olus Oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Lactic Acid, Yogurt Powder, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Darutoside, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Silica, Xanthan Gum, Inulin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sorbic Acid, Hexylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!