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Skin science article

Naturium Phyto-Glow Lip Balm Versus rhode Peptide Lip Tint

Naturium Phyto-Glow Lip Balm Versus rhode Peptide Lip Tint This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredi

Naturium Phyto-Glow Lip Balm Versus rhode Peptide Lip Tint

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Polybutene

Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Microcrystalline Wax

Aroma

Synthetic Wax

Mica

Ricinus Communis Seed Oil

Squalane

Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Tocopherol

Citric Acid

Titanium Dioxide

Iron Oxides

CI 15850

Blue 1 Lake

CI 19140

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Microcrystalline Wax, Aroma, Synthetic Wax, Mica, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Squalane, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, CI 15850, Blue 1 Lake, CI 19140

Octyldodecanol

Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil

Lactic Acid

Tribehenin

Stevioside

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Disteardimonium Hectorite

CI 77891

CI 45410

CI 42090

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Wax, Octyldodecanol, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Lactic Acid, Tribehenin, Stevioside, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Disteardimonium Hectorite, CI 77891, CI 45410, CI 15850, CI 19140, CI 42090

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.

Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.

This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.

It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.

CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.

Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.

Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.

Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.

As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Microcrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.

In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.

This is a plant-derived ester that functions as a skin conditioner. It's basically a two linoleic acid molecules combined with fatty alcohols.

In practice, it works as a rich emollient that helps reduce moisture loss and give skin a soft appearance.

The phytosterol part of this ingredient brings an added structural bonus: phytosterols are structurally similar to cholesterol so they can fit right into the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to help reinforce the skin barrier.

Due to its molecular structure, this ingredient delivers a cushiony and glossy feeling without being excessively greasy.

It did not produce skin irritation or sensitization in clinical studies, and this ingredient is deemed safe to use in cosmetics at current practices.

Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range.

Polybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.

It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.

Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.

Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.

Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.

It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.

This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.

Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.

This ingredient is also known as cupuacu butter. It's a soft, creamy plant fat that works as a skin-conditioning agent and often marketed as the plant-based alternative to lanolin.

The composition of this butter is dominated by oleic acid, stearic acid, and smaller amounts of palmitic, linoleic, and arachidic acids. There's also a useful dose of phystosterols.

That fatty-acid-and-sterol combo is why this ingredient behaves like a richer cousin of shea butter: the lipids reinforce the skin's surface and slow water loss while the sterols help support the barrier.

There's some early research too: a mouse study found cupuacu butter emulgels had antioxidant activity and a measurable photoprotective effect against UVB damage.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient but those prone to congestion might prefer formulations with lower concentrations.

Fungal acne: Cupuacu butter's fatty acids are mostly "locked up" in triglycerides that Malassezia can't easily feed on, but the yeast can slowly break these down to access the free fatty acids. Therefore, ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

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01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  4. 04Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  5. 05In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  6. 06Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  7. 07Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  8. 08While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  9. 09This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  10. 10Ci 15850 is the pigment color red. It is an azo dye and created synthetically.
  11. 11Azo dyes need to be thoroughly purified before use. This allows them to be more stable and longer-lasting.
  12. 12This ingredient is common in foundations, lipsticks, and blushes. This color is described as brown/orangey red.
  13. 13It has many secondary names such as Red 6 and Red 7. According to a manufacturer, Red 6 usually contains aluminum.
  14. 14Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
  15. 15Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
  16. 16Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
  17. 17Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
  18. 18It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
  19. 19Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
  20. 20Diisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

rhode Peptide Lip Tint

rhode Peptide Lip Tint rhode Peptide Lip Tint ingredients explained: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Polybutene, Microcrystalline Wax (C…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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