Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% Versus The INKEY List Scar, Mark And Wrinkle Solution 1% Retinol Serum

Naturium Retinaldehyde Cream Serum 0.05% Versus The INKEY List Scar, Mark And Wrinkle Solution 1% Retinol Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Triheptanoin

C13-15 Alkane

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Carbomer

Faex Extract

Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters

Soy Amino Acids

Punica Granatum Seed Extract

Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Olivine Extract

Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer

Cellulose

Phenoxyethanol

Sorbitan Oleate

Sodium Metabisulfite

Retinal

Guanosine

Uracil

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

C9-12 Alkane

Caprylyl Glycol

Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Hydroxide

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Tocopherol

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Adenosine Phosphate

Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer

Potassium Sorbate

Hexadecene

Sodium Benzoate

T-Butyl Alcohol

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Triheptanoin, C13-15 Alkane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Carbomer, Faex Extract, Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Soy Amino Acids, Punica Granatum Seed Extract, Cetyl Diglyceryl Tris(Trimethylsiloxy)Silylethyl Dimethicone, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Olivine Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Cellulose, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbitan Oleate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Retinal, Guanosine, Uracil, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, C9-12 Alkane, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Dipalmitate, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Tocopherol, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Adenosine Phosphate, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Potassium Sorbate, Hexadecene, Sodium Benzoate, T-Butyl Alcohol

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Persea Gratissima Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Squalane

Retinol

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Benzyl Alcohol

Phospholipids

Glycine Soja Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glycolipids

Dehydroacetic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Water, Glycerin, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Squalane, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Benzyl Alcohol, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Glycine Soja Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glycolipids, Dehydroacetic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Glycine Soja Sterols, T-Butyl Alcohol

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.

It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.

One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.

This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.

T-Butyl Alcohol (aka tert-butanol) is a small, clear, camphor-smelling alcohol.

It has two main jobs:

On the safety side, it's well-studied and has a solid track record. Human repeat-insult patch testing showed no skin irritation or sensitization even at 100%.

Typical use levels are pretty tiny, usually less than 1%.

You might see some fear-mongering around this ingredient:

Studies in male rats showed kidney effects but that's because of a rat-specific protein that humans don't make. So this study isn't really relevant to humans.

Though it's not a typical fragrance like parfum, it does have a natural scent. That's why the official COSIng database lists it as 'perfuming' ingredient. It can be used to modify the scent of a formula.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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