Skin science article
Naturium Vitamin Bright Illuminating Eye Cream Versus The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream
Naturium Vitamin Bright Illuminating Eye Cream Versus The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract to fade the look of dark spots. This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum
Naturium Vitamin Bright Illuminating Eye Cream Versus The INKEY List Brighten-I Eye Cream
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract to fade the look of dark spots.
This eye moisturizer is formulated around Punica Granatum Seed Oil to hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Glycerin
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Dimethicone
Isododecane
Acetyl Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydrogenated Polydecene
Stearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Phytonadione
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Phospholipids
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Sorbitan Oleate
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Algin
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Cellulose
Sodium Phytate
Escin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract
Corallina Officinalis Extract
Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract
Ammonium Glycyrrhizate
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Tocopherol
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Panthenol
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Microcrystalline Cellulose
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Polyisobutene
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Cetyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Sodium Citrate
Mica
Tin Oxide
Phenoxyethanol
CI 77891
CI 77491
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Acetyl Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Stearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phytonadione, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Phospholipids, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Sorbitan Oleate, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Algin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Cellulose, Sodium Phytate, Escin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Flower/Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Panthenol, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyisobutene, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Mica, Tin Oxide, Phenoxyethanol, CI 77891, CI 77491
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Punica Granatum Seed Oil
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Benzyl Alcohol
Polysilicone-11
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Tocopheryl Acetate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Gluconate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Silica
Dehydroacetic Acid
Diglucosyl Gallic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Trihydroxystearin
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glucomannan
Water, Dimethicone, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Mica, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Benzyl Alcohol, Polysilicone-11, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Dehydroacetic Acid, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Trihydroxystearin, Tin Oxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, CI 77891
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters isn't fungal acne safe.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.
Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.
This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.
Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
This ingredient also goes by the name SSL. It is a non-toxic, biodegradable ingredient made from renewable sources.
SSL is typically used as a surfactant and emulsifier in skincare to stabilize water-based formulas and improve texture. It can be synthetic or animal-derived.
Tin Oxide is an inorganic oxide used to add opacity and volume to a product. In nature, it is already found in mineral form. The main ore of tin is an opaque and shiny mineral called casseterite.
Tin Oxide helps remove translucency in a product, or make it more opaque. Besides adding opacity, tin oxide is used for bulking to add volume.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!