Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots. This brightening serum is

Naturium Vitamin C Complex Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ascorbic Acid

Glutathione

Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract

Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Sodium Hyaluronate

Carbomer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Sodium Hydroxide

Beta-Glucan

Potassium Sorbate

Hexylene Glycol

Sorbitol

Xanthan Gum

Algin

Benzoic Acid

Sorbic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Sodium Benzoate

Disodium Phosphate

Gold

Polysorbate 60

Sodium Phosphate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Pleiogynium Timoriense Fruit Extract, Podocarpus Elatus Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Hydroxide, Beta-Glucan, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol, Sorbitol, Xanthan Gum, Algin, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium Phosphate, Gold, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Phosphate

Ascorbyl Glucoside

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Metabisulfite

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phytic Acid

Oligopeptide-1

Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  11. 11Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  12. 12It plays several roles in a formula:
  13. 13Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  14. 14Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  15. 15However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
  16. 16Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
  17. 17Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
  18. 18Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
  19. 19This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  20. 20A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

The Inkey List Kaolin Mask

The Inkey List Kaolin Mask The Inkey List Kaolin Mask ingredients explained: Aqua, Kaolin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Stearic A…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Azelaic Acid Serum

The Inkey List Azelaic Acid Serum The Inkey List Azelaic Acid Serum ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Azelaic Acid, Propanediol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask

The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask The Inkey List Madecassoside Mask ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side