Neogen Dermalogy High R Exosome Cream Versus Geek & Gorgeous Power Peptides Serum

Neogen Dermalogy High R Exosome Cream Versus Geek & Gorgeous Power Peptides Serum

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Isononyl Isononanoate

1,2-Hexanediol

C13-16 Isoalkane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cetearyl Olivate

Heptyl Undecylenate

Sorbitan Olivate

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Adenosine

Tromethamine

Dextrin

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Sodium PCA

Sodium Lactate

Maltodextrin

Ascorbic Acid

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Ferulic Acid

Palmitoyl Isoleucine

Arginine

Aspartic Acid

PCA

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Calcium Pantothenate

Glycine

Alanine

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Lecithin

Panthenol

Polysorbate 20

Palmitic Acid

Serine

Valine

Resveratrol

Caprylyl Glycol

Isoleucine

Threonine

Proline

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Sodium Polyphosphate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Pyridoxine Hcl

Phenylalanine

Histidine

Sodium Ascorbate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Glucose

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Tricalcium Phosphate

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate

Silica

Copper Tripeptide-1

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Biotin

Pyridoxine

Folic Acid

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Cyanocobalamin

Tocopherol

Tripeptide-1

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Riboflavin

Thiamine Hcl

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Linoleic Acid

Tripeptide-2

Hexapeptide-11

Beta-Carotene

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hyaluronic Acid

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Isononyl Isononanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, C13-16 Isoalkane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Heptyl Undecylenate, Sorbitan Olivate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Adenosine, Tromethamine, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Maltodextrin, Ascorbic Acid, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Ferulic Acid, Palmitoyl Isoleucine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Calcium Pantothenate, Glycine, Alanine, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Lecithin, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Palmitic Acid, Serine, Valine, Resveratrol, Caprylyl Glycol, Isoleucine, Threonine, Proline, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Sodium Polyphosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Sodium Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Glucose, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Tricalcium Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Silica, Copper Tripeptide-1, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Biotin, Pyridoxine, Folic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Linoleic Acid, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Beta-Carotene, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hyaluronic Acid, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate

Pentylene Glycol

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Dicaprylyl Ether

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Tetrapeptide-21

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Saccharide Isomerate

Allantoin

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Tapioca Starch

Carbomer

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Polyvinyl Alcohol

Citric Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate, Tetrapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Saccharide Isomerate, Allantoin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tapioca Starch, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.

That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.

Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.

Human clinical data is promising, but modest:

A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.

A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.

You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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