Neogen Dermalogy V.biome Soothing Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream

Neogen Dermalogy V.biome Soothing Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Niacinamide to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Panthenol

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Triethylhexanoin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Ethylhexylglycerin

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Adenosine

Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Ascorbic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Collagen Extract

Cyanocobalamin

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Maltodextrin

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Butylene Glycol

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Glucose

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Calcium Pantothenate

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Sodium Polyphosphate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Pyridoxine

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Ascorbate

Menadione

Tricalcium Phosphate

Silica

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Biotin

Potassium Hyaluronate

Folic Acid

Tocopherol

Riboflavin

Thiamine Hcl

Linoleic Acid

Beta-Carotene

Water, Glycerin, Panthenol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Triethylhexanoin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Adenosine, Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Ascorbic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Collagen Extract, Cyanocobalamin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Maltodextrin, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Glucose, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Calcium Pantothenate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Sodium Polyphosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Pyridoxine, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Ascorbate, Menadione, Tricalcium Phosphate, Silica, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Biotin, Potassium Hyaluronate, Folic Acid, Tocopherol, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Linoleic Acid, Beta-Carotene

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Oxygen

Ceramide Ng

Linolenic Acid

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Colloidal Oatmeal

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Cholesterol

Polyglucuronic Acid

Cetyl Alcohol

Sodium Polyacrylate Starch

Stearic Acid

Dipropylene Glycol

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Polyacrylate

Polypropylene

Polysorbate 80

Steareth-30

Lecithin

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phenoxyethanol

Perfluorohexane

Chlorphenesin

Perfluoromethylcyclopentane

Sodium Benzoate

Potassium Sorbate

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.

Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.

Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.

Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.

One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.

This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.

Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.

Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.

Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.

Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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