Neogen Dermatology V.Biome Infusion Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

Neogen Dermatology V.Biome Infusion Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum: Propolis + Niacinamide

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

This acne serum is formulated around Propolis Extract and Niacinamide to clear breakouts and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Panthenol

1,2-Hexanediol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract

Cetearyl Olivate

Glycereth-26

Sorbitan Olivate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Arginine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Betaine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Adenosine

Carbomer

Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil

Disodium EDTA

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Ascorbic Acid

Ferulic Acid

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Collagen Extract

Xanthan Gum

Maltodextrin

Riboflavin

Thiamine Hcl

Biotin

Tranexamic Acid

Squalane

Butylene Glycol

Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Saccharide Hydrolysate

Cyanocobalamin

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Calcium Pantothenate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate

Glucose

Sodium Hyaluronate

Pyridoxine Hcl

Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone

Chondrus Crispus Extract

Menadione

Resveratrol

Vitis Vinifera Juice Extract

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Silica

Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Dextrin

CI 77220

Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Malva Sylvestris Flower Extract, Cetearyl Olivate, Glycereth-26, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Arginine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Adenosine, Carbomer, Thuja Occidentalis Leaf Oil, Disodium EDTA, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Ascorbic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract, Collagen Extract, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Biotin, Tranexamic Acid, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Cyanocobalamin, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Calcium Pantothenate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Glucose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Menadione, Resveratrol, Vitis Vinifera Juice Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Silica, Malpighia Emarginata Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Dextrin, CI 77220, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose

Propolis Extract

Dipropylene Glycol

Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Betaine Salicylate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Tromethamine

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Octanediol

Tocopherol

Propolis Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Lotus Corniculatus Seed Extract, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Betaine Salicylate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Octanediol, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dextrin is a starch-derived polysaccharide. It's made by partially breaking down corn, potato, or other plant starches.

Think of it as "half-processed" starch; it's less complex than the original but not fully broken down into sugar like maltodextrin.

In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a bulking agent, viscosity controller, binder, and absorbent. It helps thicken products, stabilize powders, and get certain textures a less "wet" feel.

This ingredient has a pretty solid safety profile; it's recognized as a safe food additive and its large molecular size means it doesn't meaningfully penetrate skin.

Human repeat insult patch tests using a rinse-off facial product containing 42.69% dextrin found no skin irritation or sensitization in 54 subjects.

Typical real-world usage is much lower: usually under 1% as a texture modifier and up to 40% in masks (rinse off products use less).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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