Skin science article
Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol
Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This calming serum i
Neogen Probiotics Double Action Serum Versus Beauty of Joseon Calming Serum: Green Tea + Panthenol
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 21%
Isopentyldiol
Triethylhexanoin
Propanediol
1,2-Hexanediol
Niacinamide
Butylene Glycol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Xanthan Gum
Tromethamine
Adenosine
Glycerin
Betaine
Allantoin
Trehalose
Panthenol
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Xylitol
Juglans Regia Seed Oil
Lactic Acid
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment
Honey Extract
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Caprylate
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
PCA
Phospholipids
Gluconic Acid
Ceramide NP
Glycine
Alanine
Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Tuber Melanosporum Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Serine
Valine
Cholesterol
Isoleucine
Threonine
Proline
Tuber Magnatum Extract
Phenylalanine
Histidine
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Glutathione
Hyaluronic Acid
Beta-Glucan
Phytosterols
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate
Limonene
Linalool
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Carbomer
Coptis Japonica Extract
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Hydrolyzed Collagen
Squalane
Polydecene
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Acacia Senegal Gum
Agar
Royal Jelly Extract
Propolis Extract
Artemisia Capillaris Extract
Guaiazulene
Tocopheryl Acetate
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide As
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide AP
Copper Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Hexapeptide-9
Tripeptide-2
Nonapeptide-1
Hexapeptide-11
Water, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate 21%, Isopentyldiol, Triethylhexanoin, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Glycerin, Betaine, Allantoin, Trehalose, Panthenol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Xylitol, Juglans Regia Seed Oil, Lactic Acid, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Streptococcus Thermophilus Ferment, Honey Extract, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Caprylate, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, PCA, Phospholipids, Gluconic Acid, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Alanine, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Tuber Melanosporum Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Serine, Valine, Cholesterol, Isoleucine, Threonine, Proline, Tuber Magnatum Extract, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Glutathione, Hyaluronic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Phytosterols, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Limonene, Linalool, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Carbomer, Coptis Japonica Extract, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Squalane, Polydecene, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Agar, Royal Jelly Extract, Propolis Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Guaiazulene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide As, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-11
Methylpropanediol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Malt Extract
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Water, Panthenol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Malt Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
This flowering plant is more commonly known as Capillary wormwood.
According to a manufacturer, the flowers of this plant are used for their anti-inflammation and moisturizing properties.
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!