Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water

Neogen Sur.Medic+ Azulene Soothing Peptide Ampoule Versus Beauty of Joseon Ginseng Essence Water

This calming ampoule is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Ceramide NP to calm redness and soften the look of wrinkles.

This calming essence is formulated around Panax Ginseng Root Water and Niacinamide to calm redness and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Isopentyldiol

1,2-Hexanediol

Polydecene

Adenosine

Guaiazulene

Copper Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-2

Hexapeptide-11

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Hexapeptide-9

Nonapeptide-1

Ceramide NP

Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Camellia Japonica Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Camellia Japonica Flower Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Calendula Officinalis Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Propolis Extract

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Cupressus Sempervirens Oil

Zinc Oxide

Beta-Glucan

Asiaticoside

Madecassic Acid

Asiatic Acid

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Madecassoside

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Persea Gratissima Oil

Allantoin

Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract

Calamine

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Panthenol

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Alcohol Denat.

Butylene Glycol

Octyldodeceth-16

Carbomer

Tromethamine

Cellulose Gum

Phenyl Trimethicone

Ethylhexylglycerin

Acacia Senegal Gum

Sodium Hyaluronate

Agar

Mannitol

Zea Mays Starch

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Disodium EDTA

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Lecithin

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Hydrogen Dimethicone

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Isopentyldiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polydecene, Adenosine, Guaiazulene, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-2, Hexapeptide-11, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Hexapeptide-9, Nonapeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Japonica Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Propolis Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Oil, Zinc Oxide, Beta-Glucan, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Madecassoside, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Allantoin, Mentha Rotundifolia Leaf Extract, Calamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Panthenol, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Octyldodeceth-16, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose Gum, Phenyl Trimethicone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Agar, Mannitol, Zea Mays Starch, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Disodium EDTA, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Hydrogen Dimethicone

Panax Ginseng Root Water

Propanediol

Niacinamide

Hydroxyacetophenone

Glyceryl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract

Theobroma Cacao Extract

Dextrin

Glucose

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate

Panax Ginseng Root Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Hydroxyacetophenone, Glyceryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Allantoin, Adenosine, Panax Ginseng Callus Culture Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Glucose, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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