Skin science article
Neutrogena Shine Control Matte Booster Face Primer + Serum Versus Kate Somerville Kx Active Concentrates Bio-Mimicking Peptides Serum
Neutrogena Shine Control Matte Booster Face Primer + Serum Versus Kate Somerville Kx Active Concentrates Bio-Mimicking Peptides Serum This serum is formulated around Panthenol to hydrate and support the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formulated around
Neutrogena Shine Control Matte Booster Face Primer + Serum Versus Kate Somerville Kx Active Concentrates Bio-Mimicking Peptides Serum
This serum is formulated around Panthenol to hydrate and support the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Sh-Polypeptide-11 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Dipropylene Glycol
Propanediol
Pentylene Glycol
Glycerin
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Silica
Panthenol
Oryza Sativa Seed Protein
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Panthenol, Oryza Sativa Seed Protein, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA
PPG-24-Glycereth-24
Spondias Mombin Pulp Extract
Mangifera Indica Pulp Extract
Musa Sapientum Pulp Extract
Acetyl Glutamine
Sodium Hyaluronate
Acer Rubrum Extract
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Cichorium Intybus Leaf Extract
Zinc PCA
Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Lecithin
Sclerotium Gum
Pullulan
1,2-Hexanediol
Bacillus
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Benzyl Alcohol
Potassium Sorbate
Butylene Glycol
Hexylene Glycol
Citric Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Xanthan Gum
Water, PPG-24-Glycereth-24, Glycerin, Propanediol, Spondias Mombin Pulp Extract, Mangifera Indica Pulp Extract, Musa Sapientum Pulp Extract, Acetyl Glutamine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acer Rubrum Extract, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Panthenol, Cichorium Intybus Leaf Extract, Zinc PCA, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bacillus, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Silica, Adenosine, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!