Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Serum Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%

Niod Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate Serum Versus The Ordinary "Buffet" + Copper Peptides 1%

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles and fade the look of dark spots.

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Lactococcus Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Niacinamide

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5

Decapeptide-22

Oligopeptide-78

Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52

Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50

Pentapeptide-18

Acetyl Hexapeptide-30

Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate

Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18

S-Mu-Conotoxin Cniiic Acetate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Darutoside

Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside

Gallyl Glucoside

Ascorbyl Glucoside

Zinc PCA

Methylglucoside Phosphate

Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate

Copper Lysinate/Prolinate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Superoxide Dismutase

Escin

Ascorbic Acid

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate

Polyglucuronic Acid

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Asparagopsis Armata Extract

Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract

Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract

Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract

Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Arginine

Panthenol

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Glycine Soja Protein

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein

Lecithin

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Xanthan Gum

Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose

Silanetriol

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Sorbitol

Pentylene Glycol

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Citric Acid

Glycolic Acid

Lactic Acid

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Polyvinyl Alcohol

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Propyl Gallate

Potassium Sorbate

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Caprylate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Benzoate

Benzyl Alcohol

Phenylpropanol

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Niacinamide, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Decapeptide-22, Oligopeptide-78, Palmitoyl Decapeptide-21, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52, Zinc Palmitoyl Nonapeptide-14, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50, Pentapeptide-18, Acetyl Hexapeptide-30, Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate, Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18, S-Mu-Conotoxin Cniiic Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Darutoside, Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside, Gallyl Glucoside, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Disodium Acetyl Glucosamine Phosphate, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Superoxide Dismutase, Escin, Ascorbic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Polyglucuronic Acid, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Fraxinus Excelsior Bark Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome Extract, Cetraria Islandica Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum Extract, Ruscus Aculeatus Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Arginine, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycine Soja Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Lecithin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Xanthan Gum, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Silanetriol, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Sorbitol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Citric Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polyvinyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Propyl Gallate, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Benzyl Alcohol, Phenylpropanol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Copper Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Allantoin

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Aspartic Acid

Trehalose

Fructose

Glucose

Maltose

Urea

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Acacia Senegal Gum

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Chlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.

Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.

Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.

Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethyl Isosorbide (often shortened to DMI) is a sugar-derived solvent made from sorbitol. It's used to dissolve tricky ingredients and help them mix smoothly into a formula.

Many actives sit as gritty crystals when undissolved, so DMI swoops in to full dissolve them. This helps improve texture, stability, and how evenly an active is distributed.

It does have a penetration-enhancing reputation that is a bit more nuanced than marketing suggests; a cell study on human skin found that 10% DMI didn't significantly boost the permeation of Hydroquinone, Salicylic Acid, or Octadecenedioic Acid compared to controls (though it did improve their solubility in the formula itself).

Typical usage concentrations usually range from 1-10% depending on the formula's needs; this ingredient is also well tolerated at these levels.

This small molecule peptide has similar benefits to Argireline, the "botox" peptide.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide mimics snake venom to freeze muscles. This prevents muscle movement and contractions to prohibit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

While this seems promising, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

This synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.

First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.

What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?

This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.

Matrikines play a role in:

Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.

This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.

This peptide is more commonly known as Leuphasyl. It has similar properties to argireline, the "botox peptide".

According to a manufacturer, Pentapeptide-18 mimics botulinum to freeze muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Their study found this 5% of this ingredient reduced wrinkles by 11%.

Combining this ingredient with Argireline showed improved results.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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