Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

NourishMax Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Dr. Barbara Sturm Anti-Pollution Drops

NourishMax Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Dr. Barbara Sturm Anti-Pollution Drops This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin. This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Betaine to strengthen the skin barrier and calm red

NourishMax Pure Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Dr. Barbara Sturm Anti-Pollution Drops

This hydrating serum is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Betaine to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Sodium Hyaluronate

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin

Betaine

Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract

Butylene Glycol

Carbomer

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sodium Hydroxide

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Water, Betaine, Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
  4. 04Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
  5. 05This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
  6. 06A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
  7. 07Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
  8. 08Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
  9. 09Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
  10. 10Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
  11. 11Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
  12. 12It plays several roles in a formula:
  13. 13Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
  14. 14Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
  15. 15However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
  16. 16Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
  17. 17Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
  18. 18Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
  19. 19This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
  20. 20A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side

04

Ask the journal

Related questions

01Is Serum Good for All Skin Types?

Serums are a form of skincare that can be added to any routine no matter what your skin type is. All skin types can benefit from the use of a serum since there are so many different formulations that can target specific skincare concerns. “Serums are used for hydration,to aid [or] maintain the skin barrier, or treat skin issues like acne or rosacea,” says Dr. Lewis. The type of serum that you may use should depend on the skin issue you’re trying to target. Think of serums as a treatment for the skin. “Some serums can reverse damage and help prevent free radicals that cause the signs of aging skin,” adds Dr. Lewis.

Source · www.skincare.com
02What Skin Types Should Use Hyaluronic Acid?

“Hyaluronic acid is particularly helpful for those experiencing dry skin, and for those desiring a plumping effect,” explains Dr. King. But, if you have an oily skin type, don’t discredit hyaluronic acid from your routine just yet. Despite the excess sebum that you may experience, it’s important to keep your skin hydrated so that it doesn’t overcompensate and produce even more oil as a result. Besides your skin type, you should also look at the condition of your skin to decide if it’s time to begin using hyaluronic acid. “If your skin is starting to look dull, flaky and you’re seeing more pronounced fine lines and wrinkles, that’s a pretty good indication that it’s time to add this ingredient to your routine,” adds O’Conner.

Source · www.skincare.com